Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail – Countryside Pubs and Real Ale in Hertfordshire

Hop aboard the Abbey Line shuttle train for a unique pub crawl between St Albans Abbey and Watford Junction in Hertfordshire. The Abbey Line is a short 6½-mile branch line through semi-rural scenery. Over the years a community rail partnership has promoted this route by linking it to the local pub scene: the Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail. Launched around 2013 to mark the line’s anniversary, this trail spans 16 local pubs from St Albans to Watford. Enthusiasts are invited to collect a stamp in a special “passport” booklet at each pub they visit. (Participants must show a valid train ticket when buying a drink to earn the stamp.) Collecting all the stamps earns a commemorative Abbey Line Rail Ale T-shirt – a fun reward that many participants cherish. As one local couple noted, “we collected stamps and a ‘passport’ and got free T-shirts at the end!”.

The Abbey Line shuttle at St Albans Abbey station, serving the 6.5-mile Watford–St Albans branch. This little electrified line (sometimes nicknamed the “Abbey Flyer”) passes through the Colne and Ver river valleys, offering a surprisingly scenic trip just outside London. The full journey takes about 20 minutes. By train it’s easy to hop on and off at any of the seven stops (Watford Junction, Watford North, Garston, Bricket Wood, How Wood, Park Street, St Albans Abbey) and visit nearby pubs without worrying about driving. Trains typically run roughly every 45 minutes (one train per ½–¾ hour, limited by the single-track line), making it a relaxed all-day excursion rather than a non-stop marathon. In practice, many plan their day out so they can enjoy a few pints at each stop and still catch the next train home.

How the Ale Trail Works

The Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail follows the familiar “Rail Ale Trail” concept used on other British routes. You start by picking up a free Abbey Line stamps booklet or “pub passport”, which is usually available at stations or participating pubs. (Often the Abbey Line CRP or London Northwestern will have these at Watford Junction and St Albans.) Whenever you arrive at one of the 16 designated pubs by train, show your rail ticket and buy a drink or meal; the pub will stamp your booklet to prove your visit. Once you’ve collected stamps from all the required pubs – in this case the full set of 16 – you trade the completed booklet for a badge or, most commonly, a limited-edition Abbey Line Rail Ale T-shirt emblazoned with the trail logo. The process is straightforward and family-friendly: there’s no race to do it all in a day, and many people spread the trail out over multiple outings. (Some pub-goers even take the Abbey Line on a regular basis, enjoying one pub per trip.) The Camra heritage of the scheme means each pub offers at least one real ale on tap, and most give trail participants a warm welcome to receive their stamp.

The Ale Trail encourages sustainable travel (“let the train take the strain”) and introduces locals and visitors to new pubs and villages along the branch line. Instead of driving, you can sip real ale, chat with friendly locals, and watch the countryside roll by. And, of course, there’s the incentive of free merchandise. The Abbey Line trail is currently run by the community rail partnership and London Northwestern (which sponsors LNR’s services), so it’s well-organised. In past years, finishing the trail yielded a souvenir T-shirt (and sometimes other freebies like badges or beer mats). The emphasis is on fun and exploration rather than a tough drinking challenge. As Rail Ale Trails have grown popular, the Abbey Line scheme has developed a loyal following: participants praise it for showing “areas along the line that we didn’t know much about” and for being a “lovely pub crawl”.

Journey Route and Scenery

The route itself is part of the attraction. The Abbey Line dates back to 1858 and is often called the Abbey Flyer. Starting at Watford Junction (a major interchange on the West Coast Main Line), the branch veers north towards St Albans Abbey. It runs parallel to the River Ver for much of its length, carving through green open spaces, parks and small rural communities. Much of the journey feels semi-rural, even though it’s only about 20 miles from London. Country fields, hedgerows and patches of woodland flank the line, and at times the train slows as it crosses century-old girder bridges and cuts under roads. At Watford North and Garston stations you glimpse woodland and the western edge of Cassiobury Park; beyond Bricket Wood the scenery opens into the River Ver valley, where farm fields lie on either side of the track. The platform at Bricket Wood Station itself is fairly rustic – just a single track and an old-style shelter, set amid trees and overgrown grass. How Wood station is similarly simple, surrounded by quiet lanes. Approaching Park Street the line runs past a village pond and green. Finally St Albans Abbey station perches just below the city, near Verulamium Park. On clear days the train ride provides pleasant rural vistas – for example you can often see swans or other birds on the river or in Cassiobury’s woods. (Scenic Rail Britain even highlights the “beautiful countryside of the Colne and Ver Valleys” along the Abbey Line Trail.)

Despite its tranquillity, the Abbey Line is surprisingly well-connected. From Watford Junction you can reach London Euston in under 20 minutes, and from St Albans Abbey the mainline station (City) is just a 10-minute walk away. But while most visitors might come for the city’s attractions (Roman ruins, cathedral, theatre), the Ale Trail invites you to stay local and sample the pubs on the branch. The short distance (6.5 miles) and quick train mean you could theoretically visit all pubs in one long day if you really tried; in practice people often break the trail into two halves or multiple trips to savour it more leisurely. For example, many will tackle the Watford–Bricket Wood section in one outing, and the Park Street–St Albans part on another day. On a clear summer weekend the combination of fresh air, train rides and pub garden breaks makes for a very pleasant day out.

Pubs Along the Route

The heart of the Ale Trail is, of course, the pubs themselves. The 16 participating establishments are a mix of traditional village inns, suburban taverns and even a brewery taproom – but all share a focus on quality ale and friendly service. While the exact list of pubs can change over time, the trail typically includes places in each of these areas:

• Watford area pubs: On the southern end of the line around Watford North and Junction you’ll find several pubs near the Cassiobury neighbourhood and town centre. For instance, the Essex Arms (on Langley Way, Cassiobury) is often on the trail – a modern Ember Inns pub known for its wide range of lagers and ales. Nearby is the Park Tavern on Park Street (not far from the branch line), a community pub with a beer garden and occasional live music. The Snow Goose on St Albans Road, a microbrewery tap (Luvata Brewhouse), has also been involved in the past, offering its own craft brews. In broad terms, Watford’s portion of the trail features comfortable suburban pubs and one or two trendy spots where the beer selection is good. (Pro tip: if you’ve time, Cassiobury Park itself is worth a detour for a quick walk between drinks.)

• Bricket Wood & How Wood pubs: A standout is The Gate on Station Road, Bricket Wood. Just 200 yards from the station, this old brick pub has a cosy interior with wood beams and a lawned beer garden out back. (A CRP walking guide notes the Gate is “near the end of the route at Bricket Wood”.) It serves classic pub fare – fish & chips, burgers, pies – and several changing real ales on handpump. The welcome is typically warm and community-oriented. A little further south on the trail is Holly Bush, a thatched-roof pub on the outskirts of How Wood village (a short stroll from How Wood station). It’s a picturesque country pub with a large garden and a big menu, so often busy with families. The Holly Bush tends to have a couple of well-kept ales on (often from local Hertfordshire breweries), plus a variety of lagers. Nearby, the Moor Mill (a Beefeater restaurant on Garston Lane) usually participates; it’s a modern chain pub with a rustic interior, barbecue menu options and a decent beer selection (for example Shepherd Neame’s Spitfire). It’s not as cosy as the rural inns, but is a convenient stop if you’re splitting the trip or need a food-heavy break.

• Park Street pubs: Two village pubs serve Park Street (a small suburb of St Albans). The Overdraught (86 Park Street) is a Grade-II-listed Victorian pub with timbered rooms and a genuine old-world feel. It’s family-friendly (with a children’s playground in the garden) and very popular with locals. The Overdraught is a real-ale fixture – it usually has Greene King IPA and a changing local beer on handpump, poured in traditional glasses. Next door is the Swan, a pub/restaurant with an equally large beer garden. The Swan often caters to park walkers and dog owners, and while its ales selection may not be as extensive, it’s known for friendly service and pub-grub like burgers and Sunday roasts. Both Park Street pubs provide that cosy village charm, and since the station is only a few minutes’ walk away, they’re perfect first/last stops on the St Albans side.

• St Albans pubs: The Abbey Line officially ends at St Albans Abbey station, which sits just south of the city centre. True to the trail’s spirit, local favourites here include historic and quirky spots. The most famous is Ye Olde Fighting Cocks (also in Park Street, but often included in Abbey station trails) – reputedly one of England’s oldest pubs. The community rail partnership itself highlights it as “the oldest pub in England”. It’s a rambling timbered inn that pulls pints of ales like Old Speckled Hen and Greene King IPA, and serves hearty pub food. Another nearby stop is the Waffle House (located in a restored medieval watermill) – not a pub per se, but a cafe-bar with stone-oven pizzas and Belgian beers, beloved by families. Even if you’re only grabbing a coffee or waffle there, you can still stamp the trail book. Finally, St Albans Abbey station is only a short walk from the city’s famous cathedral and marketplace, where dozens more pubs and breweries await. Some trail-goers choose to celebrate “finishing” the trail by exploring St Albans’s excellent beer scene – visiting brewpubs like the McMullen’s Maltings or casual taverns in the historic quarter.

In every pub, you can expect a classic pub menu and ales. Many serve proper British pub grub – steaks, fish and chips, homemade pie, Sunday roasts, or bar snacks – to soak up the beer. The variety means every kind of traveller will find something: vegetarians and vegans will note that most pubs offer veggie burgers, salads or plant-based dishes. I was told by a manager at one of the Park Street pubs that their nut roast Sunday dinner is quite popular. Beer-wise, traditional English bitters and pale ales are the norm, often from regional breweries (Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire or London districts). For example, you might find ales from Tring Brewery, Tringhams Brewery (just north of St Albans), Nethergate or even the local Pope’s Yard. And of course, each pub generally keeps a guest beer from a microbrewery on tap – sometimes a hazy IPA, sometimes a smooth bitter. Staff at these independent pubs are usually knowledgeable and happy to recommend the house ale or the “guest beer of the moment” to curious drinkers. It’s common for pub managers on the trail to keep a few Abbey Line brochures behind the bar, ready to stamp your booklet with a flourish.

The trail pubs vary from rustic and quiet (like the Bricket Wood Gate) to lively and family-oriented (like Moor Mill or the Holly Bush on a Sunday). None of them are noisy sports bars – there are no big-screen TVs blaring football on most nights. Instead, the atmosphere is genuinely social and relaxed. In each stop you’ll find locals chatting and laughing, dogs under tables, and the friendly banter of pub conversation. Because the Ale Trail is about trains, you’ll also see fellow travellers comparing stamps and sharing tips (“Let’s hope we get here before closing time!”) at many tables. On fine days the gardens and patios fill up; on colder evenings the staff will light fireplaces or heaters, making the pubs especially cosy.

Facilities-wise, these pubs generally are traditional village inns, so parking is hit-or-miss (many patrons simply use the train). Some pubs like the Overdraught and Moor Mill have car parks; others rely on street parking or adjacent shops. Access varies: at least one pub (the Overdraught) is listed and has steps, but most have wheelchair-ramps or level entries. All welcome children and dogs. Menus and ale lists are usually displayed at the door or on chalkboards. It’s wise to check opening hours – many pubs open around lunchtime and stay open through the evening, but some close briefly in the mid-afternoon. Late on Sunday nights a pub may shut as early as 8 pm, so if you’re doing the full trail on a Sunday, plan accordingly. On event days (local fairs or bank holidays) pubs may also have special beer festivals or guest beers. For instance, when I visited one midsummer Saturday, a pub had a cask of a new Pope’s Yard ale on tap in honour of the Abbey Line’s heritage.

Overall, the pubs on the Abbey Line Trail each offer a flavour of the region’s character: from St Albans’s historic charm to Watford’s suburban buzz. You won’t find chain burger bars here (aside from the branded restaurant pubs like Moor Mill); it’s all local. That means you often get good value – pub meals and ales at regular village-pub prices rather than premium tourist rates. I observed that pints tend to be around £4–£5, and main meals £12–£15, which many locals consider fair for the portion and quality served. The general consensus is that you won’t save a fortune doing this compared to a standard pub crawl, but the experience and scenery are the real value-add.

Participating and Planning Your Visit

Joining the Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail is easy and doesn’t require advance registration. The Abbey Line Community Rail Partnership provides the free Ale Trail passport booklet; just pick one up from a station ticket office (Watford or St Albans Abbey) or ask at any trail pub. The booklet contains a map of the line with all 16 pub locations marked (plus addresses and opening times). It may also include a few promotional coupons (e.g. a free drink with a full meal in some pubs). Once you have the booklet, all you need is a valid train ticket for travel. A one-day Rover ticket is a good option if you plan many rides, but a standard return or Carnet of return tickets will do – just keep your ticket stubs with your passport to prove you came by train. In normal circumstances, you don’t have to finish in one day or in order, but some breweries may prefer you visit in sequence. It’s a good idea to check a current timetable (trains on the Abbey Line are run by London Northwestern Railway; their online schedule is the official source).

As of 2025, the service runs roughly half-hourly during weekday daytimes, though with occasional gaps. Note that the line has no Sunday service at present, so the traditional Ale Trail operates Monday–Saturday (many people opt for a Saturday or bank holiday to do the trail). Some trains are now the new Class 730 units with walk-through coaches, while others may still be older units. Whichever, the ride itself is short and staff are friendly – conductors often help visitors by knowing which station to watch for if you aren’t a local.

For train enthusiasts, combining the Ale Trail with other Abbey Line events is possible. For example, the ABFLY (Abbey Line Users’ Group) and the Abbey Line CRP occasionally co-run beer festivals or special beer releases (recently a local brewery even brewed an “Abbey Flyer” ale to mark 20 years of the CRP). If your trip coincides with a local market day in St Albans (Wednesday or Saturday) or a village fete near Bricket Wood, you might plan to grab a bite at that first. Otherwise, the trail is very straightforward: train down, pub, train back, pub, and so on. We found it simplest to travel in a loop – e.g. start at Watford Junction, ride up to Bricket Wood to visit The Gate, then double back to Park Street for the Overdraught, and finally head down to Abbess station to claim the T-shirt prize. But any order works as long as you tag each pub with a stamp.

Remember to drink responsibly. Pubs will stamp on a food purchase even if you only have a soft drink, so non-drinkers or kids can join in the fun and still “complete” the trail – some families do this and still get a T-shirt at the end. Because the trains run frequently and you can hop on at any station, there’s no risk of missing the last train home, as long as you keep an eye on the timetable. (You can also download apps for live train updates to avoid a long wait if trains are disrupted.) The Abbey Line CRP and local CAMRA always emphasise that the goal is a day out by rail, not a booze-up; indeed, past materials quote the slogan “let the train take the strain” to stress safety.

Finally, some logistical tips: the Abbey Line stations are mostly unstaffed halts with minimal parking, so arriving by car to catch the train defeats the purpose. Take advantage of the good rail links from Watford Junction or St Albans mainline station (St Albans City), or from London. If you drive to Watford Junction, there is a long-stay car park at the station (plus the public car parks of Cassiobury Park a short walk away). St Albans Abbey station has a small free car park. Many participants even park in St Albans or Watford town and take a taxi or secondary train to start the trail. Dress for changeable weather (much of the route is exposed countryside) and wear comfortable shoes for any walking between pubs and stations. With smart planning, you can easily fit in a hearty pub lunch (say at Moor Mill or Overdraught), two or three pints between trains, and even an early evening dinner stop – perhaps a Sunday roast at The Gate (Bricket Wood) or The Swan (Park Street) if you time it right.

Why Try the Abbey Line Ale Trail?

The Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail offers something special beyond an ordinary pub crawl. It’s a chance to explore Hertfordshire in an entirely relaxed way – travelling by train through villages and river valleys, instead of driving on busy roads. Each pub you visit is a part of the local community, with its own character and history, rather than a generic chain. Many participants remark that they discovered neighbourhoods and views they never knew existed just because they followed the trail. The combination of rural charm and historic pubs means you feel a bit like you’re in the English countryside, even though you’re only a short train ride from London.

For real ale lovers, the trail is a curated sampling of the area’s beer scene: you get to compare a dozen different pubs’ interpretations of “a good pint”. We found that none of the pubs let their beer go flat – each ale tasted fresh, suggesting the lines are kept clean and the staff know how to serve it. Bartenders were often eager to recommend something local (for example, a hoppy Tring IPA or a smooth Marston’s Pedigree). And because almost every pub is independent, there’s a lot of variety. In our experience, every time we tried a trail pub’s “house” or guest ale, it felt like a well-kept local tip, not just a standard brand.

Beyond the beer, the trail is fun simply because it’s social and different. We spent the day chatting with old friends, comparing the best stamp (some pubs had a fun rubber stamp design), and appreciating that no one needed a designated driver. The T-shirt prize at the end – while playful – is actually a nice keepsake to remember the outing. It’s easy to share photos on social media with the hashtag #AbbeyLineAle or similar, which the community rail group often retweets.

The Abbey Line Rail Ale Trail is a well-run, genuinely enjoyable day out: you get to see new places, ride the quaint little train, and enjoy good pints along the way. It’s especially great for people who like rural England, old pubs, or just a relaxed pub crawl with a twist. We highly recommend it to locals or visitors in Hertfordshire. With buses and traffic often busy, this trail gives you a guilt-free ride on the train while savouring traditional pub hospitality. Just do it in moderation, and you’ll have a memorable and safe outing – perhaps ticking off all 16 pubs over a weekend or two, and earning that coveted trail T-shirt as a trophy of your adventure.