Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail – Scenic Pubs and Real Ale Adventures from Derby to Matlock

There’s something uniquely satisfying about combining scenic train travel with stops at characterful country pubs. The Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail offers exactly that – a journey through Derbyshire’s picturesque Derwent Valley, hopping on and off the train between Derby and Matlock to visit traditional inns and sample local real ales. This trail is part of a wider British tradition of rail ale trails, a concept designed to promote rural tourism by encouraging people to visit a series of pubs close to railway stations. By letting the train ferry you from one pub to the next, you can enjoy the region’s best pints without worrying about driving, all while soaking up the beautiful scenery and heritage of the route. It’s an experience that appeals equally to beer enthusiasts, casual pub-goers, and rail fans looking for a memorable day out.

Launched as Derbyshire’s first dedicated rail ale trail in the 2010s, the Derwent Valley Line trail has been supported by local tourism and real ale champions (including CAMRA) from the start. Participants can obtain a free trail leaflet (available at stations and online) which traditionally can be stamped at each pub – collect enough stamps and you might earn a souvenir like a special ale trail t-shirt or badge. But the real reward here is the journey itself: over roughly 17 miles of railway you’ll discover quaint villages, historic mill towns, and pub hospitality that ranges from cosy taprooms to beer gardens with stunning views. All of this is linked by an hourly train service that trundles alongside the River Derwent and through the green heart of Derbyshire. In short, the Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail isn’t just a pub crawl – it’s a full day of scenic, car-free exploration, celebrating local beer and local history hand in hand.

A Scenic Journey Through History

Part of what makes the Derwent Valley Line ale trail special is the journey itself. The railway between Derby and Matlock is remarkably scenic, winding through a valley of woodlands, meadows and limestone cliffs as it shadows the River Derwent. In fact, this stretch of railway passes through the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site, an area known as the cradle of the Industrial Revolution for its 18th-century cotton mills and workers’ settlements. As your train departs Derby and heads north, you’re not just travelling through pretty countryside – you’re traversing a landscape rich with industrial history and natural beauty at every turn.

One highlight is the approach to Matlock Bath, a Victorian spa village tucked in the steep-sided gorge of the Derwent. Here the railway runs beneath towering cliffs, including the spectacular face of High Tor, a formation that so amazed 19th-century visitors that Matlock Bath earned the nickname “Little Switzerland”. Today you can even take a cable car from Matlock Bath station up to the Heights of Abraham park, gaining a bird’s-eye view over the valley and High Tor – an experience earlier visitors could only have dreamed of. (At the summit, there’s a hillside tavern said to hold the area’s oldest beer license – well worth a pint with a view if you have time to spare!) The train between Ambergate and Cromford closely parallels the Cromford Canal, offering glimpses of tranquil canal locks and stone bridges. In some places the rail line and river dance around each other – in fact, the railway crosses the Derwent multiple times on the way to Matlock, a reminder of the clever engineering that threaded tracks through this winding valley.

Riding this route feels like a journey back in time. You’ll pass the looming red brick mill buildings of Belper and Cromford, visible reminders of Derbyshire’s pioneering past in textiles. Stations themselves often have historic charm – expect traditional stone station houses or old-fashioned footbridges at some stops. And at the line’s terminus in Matlock, history literally sits on the rails: the preserved steam trains of Peak Rail (a heritage railway) are often seen adjacent to the modern trains. It’s not uncommon to see a vintage steam locomotive chuffing away next to your East Midlands Railway diesel unit at Matlock Station, a delightful juxtaposition of past and present. A heritage steam locomotive (left) and a modern diesel train (right) side by side at Matlock Station, where the Derwent Valley Line meets the heritage Peak Rail line.

Importantly, the whole journey is short and sweet – just 34 minutes end-to-end if you stayed on the train without hopping off. That makes it very easy to structure your ale trail outing, since the distances between stops are modest (usually only 5–10 minutes apart by train). You won’t be stuck on a train for long stretches – this adventure is all about brief rides and leisurely stopovers. In practice, most ale trailers set aside a full day to meander up and down the line, allowing time to explore each town and enjoy a pint (or bite to eat) before catching the next train. Trains run hourly in both directions, so generally you can plan on about an hour between departures at each station – a convenient pace for enjoying a drink without too much clock-watching. Just be sure to check the latest timetable and note the time of the last train back to Derby in the evening, especially if you linger for “one more for the road” in Matlock or elsewhere!

Pubs and Stops Along the Line

The Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail focuses on the string of towns and villages between Derby and Matlock, each with its own character and worthy pubs. Most of the recommended pubs are within a few minutes’ walk of their stations (often downhill from the railway, given the valley terrain – remember you might have a brief uphill walk when returning to catch the train). Here’s a station-by-station look at what awaits:

Derby – A Perfect Starting Pint

The city of Derby makes an ideal start (or end) point for the trail, not least because it’s renowned for its real ale scene. Derby has been dubbed one of Britain’s “real ale capitals,” and the moment you step outside Derby railway station you’ll see why. Just a few yards from the platform is The Brunswick Inn, a classic Victorian pub at 1 Railway Terrace that’s a veritable beer shrine. The Brunswick is actually part of railway history – it was built in the 1840s as part of Derby’s original railway village. Saved from dereliction in the 1980s, today it boasts its own microbrewery on-site, turning out house beers that often awe ale enthusiasts with their quality. With multiple small rooms, wood panelling, open fires and a corridor lined with brewing memorabilia, the Brunswick exudes old-fashioned charm. It’s the kind of place where you could easily spend all day, but on a rail ale trail it might serve best as the hearty kick-off: perhaps start your journey with a pint of the house-brewed “Triple Hop” pale ale or another local brew, and soak in the atmosphere of what was Britain’s first railway buffet bar in the 19th century.

Round the corner on Siddals Road is The Alexandra Hotel, another Derby institution that trail-goers will love. The “Alex” (as locals call it) is a beautifully preserved pub dating back to 1896, sporting a distinctive bright green and cream exterior. Inside, it’s a touch retro with comfortable rooms full of railway and brewing artefacts. This pub is famed for its association with the Castle Rock Brewery – expect Castle Rock’s award-winning Harvest Pale on draft, alongside a range of guest ales and even an impressive selection of continental beers. The Alex’s friendly staff and cosy vibe make it a great place to chat with locals; many rail travellers pop in here while waiting for their train, since it’s just a 2-minute walk from the station footbridge. Between the Brunswick and the Alex, Derby station is blessed with two outstanding pubs before you’ve even left the city – a very strong start to the trail. (If you have more time in Derby, the city centre offers even more notable pubs – from the historic Ye Olde Dolphin Inne (dating to 1530!) to modern craft beer bars – but the beauty of the Rail Ale Trail is that countryside awaits, so we’ll press on.)

Duffield – Village Charm at the Pattenmakers

After a short 7-minute train hop north from Derby, you’ll arrive at Duffield, a leafy village that serves as the gateway to the Derwent valley. While Duffield is smaller than other stops, it does offer a gem for ale trailers: The Pattenmakers Arms. Tucked on a side street just a few hundred metres from the station, the Pattenmakers Arms is a traditional Edwardian pub that has retained much of its original character. Expect an old-school two-room layout, quarry-tiled floors, etched glass windows and a friendly local crowd. In recent years the Pattenmakers has gained a reputation for good gastropub food without losing its soul – it remains a real community local, complete with well-kept cask ales on the handpumps. On a sunny day, you can enjoy your pint in the beer garden out back; in cooler months, the cosy interior invites you to linger. Duffield might only warrant a brief stop, but the warm welcome at Pattenmakers Arms makes it a worthwhile one. (As a bonus for rail enthusiasts, Duffield station is also the southern terminus of the Ecclesbourne Valley Railway, a heritage steam and diesel line to Wirksworth – you might spot a vintage train in the adjacent platform if you’re lucky. Even if not, it’s neat knowing another classic railway starts right here beside our ale trail.)

Belper – Historic Mill Town, Historic Pubs

Continuing north, the next stop Belper is a highlight of the trail. This bustling market town grew out of the Industrial Revolution – in the late 18th century, Jedediah Strutt built one of the world’s first water-powered cotton mills here, and the community that sprang up around it is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stepping off the train at Belper, you’re stepping into a town rich with heritage, from its red-brick mill buildings and workers’ cottages to its Georgian-era townscape. And perhaps most importantly for us, Belper is abundant in pubs – you’ll find everything from traditional coaching inns to modern micro-pubs within easy walking distance of the station.

Real ale lovers could happily spend an entire day in Belper alone. If you’re keeping to the trail schedule, though, you’ll need to be selective – so here are a couple of Belper’s stand-out pub experiences. Just downhill from the station on Bridge Street you’ll encounter The Railway Inn (often simply called “The Railway”). Dating back to 1868, this pub was originally built by the Midland Railway to serve train passengers, and it retains a classic pub feel with an emphasis on community and live music. After a refurbishment, The Railway Inn has thrived as a lively yet family-friendly pub that even earned the title of Best Pub in Derbyshire in 2024 – proof of its excellent ales and atmosphere. Closer to the town centre, a short stroll brings you to the George and Dragon on Bridge Street. This inn dates to the early 19th century and oozes character (low beams, snug rooms, and plenty of local lore). In fact, the George and Dragon is said to be haunted by several ghosts, and locals talk of a mysterious white light that sometimes appears at the bar – a story you might mull over with a pint in hand! Ghosts aside, the pub is beloved for its traditional vibe and well-kept beers. It’s the kind of historic pub where you can almost imagine mill workers of old unwinding after a long shift.

Belper also caters to modern tastes with a slew of micro-pubs and taprooms. One popular spot is Arkwright’s Real Ale Bar, a tiny one-room pub (named after Sir Richard Arkwright, of course) that champions conversation and local brews – no TVs or loud music here, just great beer and friendly chatter. Another is Angels Micro Pub on the Market Place, which offers rotating cask ales and craft beer in a cozy setting that often spills out onto the pavement on nice evenings. And if you wander up to the Market Place or Campbell Street, you’ll find Belper’s Craft Brewery Taprooms – for instance, the recently opened Crich Brew Co. taproom, tucked in a former bank building, where you can sample innovative small-batch beers brewed right in the town. For a town of its size, Belper truly spoils visitors with its pub selection. If you’ve time, take a quick look at the Belper River Gardens near the mill weir – a lovely Victorian park by the river – to clear your head between pints. But don’t dawdle too long, because the next train is coming to whisk you further into the valley.

Ambergate & Whatstandwell – Short Stop, Big Scenery

North of Belper the valley narrows, and the railway closely hugs the hillside as it moves towards Ambergate. This hamlet was historically a railway junction (the line to Buxton once branched off here), and though small, it provides another trail refreshment spot. Right across from Ambergate station is The Hurt Arms, a striking 19th-century coaching inn turned pub/hotel that’s hard to miss. With its gabled brick facade and prominent location, The Hurt Arms is a convenient pit stop for a pint. Inside, it combines traditional features (a stone fireplace, original pub signboards) with a modern bar and dining area – reflecting its recent refurbishment into a more gastropub-style venue. Many ale trail participants schedule a stop here around lunchtime, as The Hurt Arms offers a hearty food menu alongside local ales (you might encounter brews from Matlock’s Peak Ales or other Derbyshire breweries on tap). On a sunny day, grab a seat outside; Ambergate sits at the confluence of the Derwent and Amber rivers, and the greenery around the pub makes for a pleasant backdrop as you relax with your drink.

Just beyond Ambergate is Whatstandwell, the quietest and most rural station on the line – and notably, the one stop without a pub in easy reach. In years past, Whatstandwell had a pub by the canal, but today there are no pubs operating in the immediate vicinity. Don’t be too disappointed, though: this stretch is still rewarding in other ways. If you’re inclined, you can use the time here to take a stroll along the adjacent Cromford Canal towpath, enjoying the peace of the water and woods – a nice way to break up the day and clear your palate before the next round. The 1.5-mile walk from Whatstandwell to Cromford station along the canal is especially lovely, passing old canal cottages and abundant wildlife (and it’s downhill/level the whole way), but bear in mind you’d then skip re-boarding at Whatstandwell and catch the train at Cromford instead. Whether by walking or by riding the train to the very next stop, Cromford awaits with more liquid rewards.

Cromford – Pints by the Canal and Historic Inns

Alighting at Cromford, you’re truly in one of the cradles of the Industrial Revolution. This is where Sir Richard Arkwright established his pioneering cotton mills in the 1770s, effectively creating the world’s first factory community. History buffs might want to peek at the preserved Cromford Mills site just down the hill from the station, or stroll into the village with its old workers’ cottages and quaint market square. But for ale trailers, Cromford offers two particularly atmospheric pub options, each with a different vibe.

One is The Greyhound, an impressive stone-built inn located in Cromford’s village centre near the market square (about a 10-minute walk from the station). The Greyhound Hotel was built in 1778 by Arkwright himself to accommodate important visitors to his mills – indeed, everyone from aristocrats to famed intellects like Dr. Samuel Johnson stayed (and supped ale) at the Greyhound in its Georgian heyday. Stepping inside today, you’ll find a refurbished yet characterful pub-hotel that honours its heritage. The interior has cosy dining rooms and a classic bar area, and while the Greyhound does lean toward the food-and-lodging side of the business, it keeps a good selection of cask ales on tap (often featuring Derbyshire breweries). Sipping a pint here, you can’t help but feel connected to the centuries of travellers and mill owners who did the same. If you prefer a more rustic pub experience, head to The Boat Inn, a short stroll from Cromford station down by the canal wharf. The Boat Inn is a traditional canal-side pub that has refreshed many a thirsty boatman and mill worker over the last 200+ years. It’s unpretentious and friendly, with low ceilings, wood beams, and a handful of real ales at the bar (plus simple tasty pub grub). Grab a seat in the beer garden if weather permits – it overlooks the tranquil canal basin where colourful narrowboats moor. On a sunny afternoon, The Boat’s relaxed atmosphere, with ducks waddling by and the sound of wind in the reeds, can be a highlight of the entire trail.

Many ale trailers actually plan for an extended stop in Cromford, given its attractions and pub choices. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself lingering longer here – in fact, one rail ale enthusiast noted that Cromford was a longer walk from the station, so they allotted two hours here to visit both pubs. It’s a wise strategy: you can tour a bit of the mill site, enjoy lunch at one pub and a follow-up pint at the other, all without rushing. The Cromford area truly marries heritage and beer in a satisfying way.

Matlock Bath – A “Seaside” Resort Pub Stop

From Cromford it’s only a 3-minute hop by train to Matlock Bath, yet the scenery and vibe change dramatically. Matlock Bath is famous for its odd blend of geology and nostalgia – a riverside village that became a Georgian and Victorian leisure resort due to its warm springs and dramatic scenery. It’s often described as having an “inland seaside” atmosphere: think ice cream parlours, fish-and-chip shops, arcades and colourful attractions lining the main promenade. Indeed, arriving in Matlock Bath you might notice the smell of salt-and-vinegar in the air and crowds of families and bikers milling about as if you were in a coastal town. Amid this holiday bustle, of course, are some characterful pubs ready to quench your thirst.

One standout here is The Fishpond Freehouse, centrally located on North Parade not far from the station. Housed in an elegant historic building, The Fishpond is a lively pub that offers something for everyone. Beer aficionados will appreciate its ever-changing range of real ales (often including local Peak District brews), while those looking for entertainment will find live music nights and even occasional beer festivals. In fact, the Fishpond hosts an annual music festival and the famously quirky Matlock Bath Pirate Mutiny weekend – a pirate-themed extravaganza of rum, music and costumed fun each summer. Even on a normal day, the pub’s interior – with its high ceilings, stained glass and Victorian decor – makes for a memorable pint. If you prefer somewhere a bit quieter, The Midland pub (just opposite Matlock Bath station) might be your choice. As its name suggests, The Midland was historically the railway hotel. It’s a smaller, no-frills inn that keeps a decent pint and often is less crowded – convenient if you’re hopping off the train and want to dive straight into a pub. Another option a few minutes’ walk south is The Rose Cottage, a charming old pub with a large beer garden backing onto the river. On sunny days, Rose Cottage’s garden becomes a social hub where bikers, tourists and locals all relax together by the waterside, pints in hand.

Matlock Bath is also known for its seasonal events. If you happen to visit in autumn, you might catch the Matlock Bath Illuminations (weekends in September/October), when the riverside is lit up and decorated boats parade on the Derwent after dark. On those nights, the pubs fill up with spectators and there’s a festive feel in every beer garden. Whenever you visit, do take a moment to wander the promenade – perhaps with an ice cream or just to people-watch – because Matlock Bath’s unique ambience is a refreshing change of pace on the ale trail. It’s both a step back to Victorian holiday-making and a slice of seaside-style fun in the hills of Derbyshire. Once you’re ready to leave the penny arcades and candyfloss behind, one last short train ride will bring you to the final stop on the trail.

Matlock – Journey’s End with a Cheers!

The terminus of the line at Matlock town offers a fitting finale for the Rail Ale Trail. Matlock is a handsome county town – slightly larger and more workaday than Matlock Bath – with a mix of elegant parks, shops, and of course, pubs to enjoy. By the time you reach Matlock, you’ll have earned a celebratory pint (or two), and you have several great choices right near the station. If you’re looking for a classic pub atmosphere to cap off the day, head up the hill (a 10-minute walk or a short taxi hop) to The Thorn Tree Inn in Matlock’s residential Old Matlock area. This pub is beloved by locals and ale aficionados alike, not only for its well-kept beers but also for its stunning panoramic view – it’s perched high above Matlock, and from its beer garden you can gaze out over the town’s rooftops and across to the hills, including the imposing silhouette of Riber Castle on the opposite ridge. On a clear evening, the view from the Thorn Tree’s patio, pint in hand, is hard to beat. The pub itself is a traditional two-roomer with a friendly, unpretentious vibe (and yes, they do an excellent homemade pie if you’re craving pub grub by now).

If climbing hills isn’t in your post-beer repertoire, fret not – Matlock’s town centre has options closer to the station. One popular spot practically next door to Matlock Station is Stanley’s Alehouse, a modern micropub located just across the road. Stanley’s may be small in size, but it’s big on local beer, typically offering a rotating selection of Derbyshire and Peak District ales in a convivial, chatty environment. Just around the corner, you’ll find The Remarkable Hare, a gastropub that combines a rustic-chic interior (exposed stone walls, big wooden tables) with a line-up of cask ales and hearty meals – a great place to sit and reminisce about the day’s highlights over a final drink. Matlock also has a Wetherspoon pub (The Crown), handy for those collecting Spoons or seeking budget-friendly pints, and several other traditional pubs scattered through town. Should you decide to extend your adventure, Matlock could even serve as an overnight base; with B&Bs and hotels around, some ale trailers choose to stay the night and possibly venture further (the Peak District National Park begins just up the road, and the preserved Peak Rail can carry you a bit further to Rowsley by steam train when operating). But as far as the official Rail Ale Trail goes, Matlock marks the end – you made it! Take a moment to raise a glass here to a day well spent.

Practical Tips for the Rail Ale Trail

Embarking on the Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail is straightforward, but a few tips will help you make the most of it. First, tickets: the line is operated by East Midlands Railway and benefits from some great-value fares. For instance, an Off-Peak Day Return from Derby to Matlock costs around £7–8 (current price is £7.70 as of 2025), and that single ticket allows you unlimited hop on–hop off between all intermediate stations in the same day. Essentially, you can treat it like a hop-on, hop-off tour – just be sure to resume your journey in the same direction of travel. If you’re coming from farther afield (say Nottingham, which is actually the southern start of the Derwent Valley Line, or from cities like Sheffield or Birmingham via connections), consider any GroupSave offers if travelling with friends, or the Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket which covers both buses and trains in the area for a day. Check online or at the station for these options. The trail is most commonly done Derby northwards (so that you end in Matlock and then return to Derby), but there’s no rule against doing it in reverse – some might prefer starting in Matlock late morning and finishing in Derby’s many pubs in the evening. Just plan your train times accordingly.

Train frequency on the Derby–Matlock stretch is generally hourly in each direction Monday to Saturday, with slightly fewer services on Sundays. This usually suffices to hit all the stops you want, but do grab a timetable or use a rail app to time your pub visits. You don’t want to gulp a perfect pint in panic because you misremembered the departure time! Fortunately, with an hour between trains, you have a comfortable window at each stop – enough for a drink and a look around, and even a quick meal at one of the pubs if you time it right. Many ale trailers plan a lunch stop (Belper or Cromford are popular choices for their food options) and maybe a late-afternoon snack in Matlock Bath (who can resist those fish and chips?). And remember that Derby station, being a major rail hub, will have late departures if you’re returning there – typically the last train back from Matlock is early evening (around 10pm), but double-check the schedule if you’re aiming for the final service.

A key tip: pace yourself. It’s easy to get carried away with multiple ales at the first couple of pubs – the quality is that good – but do keep in mind you have several stops ahead. Many pubs offer half-pints, which can be a smart way to sample more beers without overindulging. Hydrate in between with water or a soft drink, and don’t shy away from taking breaks (a short walk or some fresh air by the river can rejuvenate you for the next round). The idea is to enjoy the day and remember it fondly! The trail is meant to be leisurely, not a race; in fact, lingering to chat with pub staff or fellow travellers can often be the most rewarding part of the experience. You’ll find that locals are usually very welcoming – they’re proud of their pubs and happy to share recommendations on what ale to try next or which pub down the line is a “must-visit.”

Finally, a note on responsible travel: The Rail Ale Trail is all about promoting safe, car-free enjoyment of pubs, so by taking part you’re already doing the sensible thing by not driving. Encourage anyone with you to do the same. If your group is large or particularly celebratory (e.g. a birthday or stag/hen do), be mindful of other passengers on the trains and other pub patrons – the trail is a public, casual affair, not a rowdy organised crawl. In recent years, some famous rail ale trails elsewhere had issues with overcrowding and noise, but the Derwent Valley Line’s remains, happily, a relaxed experience. The trains here don’t tend to be overly crowded (except occasionally with hikers or on days when Derby County football fans are travelling to a home match). In short, it’s an accessible adventure for all.

Conclusion

Completing the Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail is a triumph of good taste and good times. In one day you get to enjoy the best of Derbyshire: friendly pubs, each with their own story and style; delicious local ales poured fresh for you to savour; and a backdrop of gorgeous valley landscapes and historic sights tying it all together. It’s the kind of journey that reminds you why the simple pleasures in life – a train ride through the countryside, a well-pulled pint, a bit of banter with friends or locals – are often the most rewarding. From the moment you took that first sip in Derby to the final “cheers!” in Matlock, you’ve been part of a tradition that celebrates community and travel in an utterly charming way.

What’s especially delightful about the Derwent Valley trail is how unpretentious and community-driven it feels. These pubs aren’t tourist traps; they’re genuine local establishments, many family-run or historically significant to their towns, and your visit helps support them. The railway, too, is a vital link for these communities, and by using it you’re contributing to sustainable, green travel (and you might even bump into the volunteer members of the Derwent Valley Line Community Rail Partnership who help keep this line so welcoming). There’s a real symbiosis here: the railway brings you to the pubs, the pubs reward you with hospitality, and together they make the whole region more vibrant. No wonder the rail ale trail concept has caught on so well – it’s a win-win for visitors and locals alike.

As you reflect on your day, you’ll likely have some favourite moments – be it the taste of that perfect porter you tried in Belper, or the sight of the sun setting over the Derwent as you sat in a beer garden at Cromford, or a friendly chat with a brewer you met at a micropub. Every ale trailer’s experience will be a bit different, which is part of the magic. You might even already be plotting a return trip to spend more time at a pub you loved or to bring along a friend who couldn’t make it this time. Feel free to share your adventure on social media or with fellow beer lovers; the community loves hearing about people enjoying the trail (use the hashtag of the rail line or tag the pubs – they’ll appreciate it).

The Derwent Valley Line Rail Ale Trail is more than the sum of its parts. It’s not just about the pints or the trains or the views – it’s about the experience of journeying. It’s leisurely, flavourful, convivial, and a little adventurous, all at once. Whether you’re a Derbyshire local rediscovering your own backyard, or a visitor keen to explore the Peak District area in a novel way, this trail offers an itinerary you won’t soon forget. So here’s to Derby and Matlock, to porters and pale ales, to station platforms and pub barstools – and to you, for making the journey.