Heart of Wales Rail Ale Trail – Scenic Train & Real Ale Adventure

Embark on a journey through the Welsh countryside aboard the Heart of Wales Line, a 120-mile railway that winds from Swansea to Shrewsbury. Known as one of Britain’s most picturesque routes, the train snakes through rolling green hills, tunnels beneath Sugar Loaf mountain, and over the historic Cynghordy Viaduct before reaching market towns like Llandovery and Llandeilo in the Tywi Valley. Launched by Arriva in 2006 as one of the “Top 100 Experiences in Wales,” this rail line now boasts an informal Rail Ale Trail – a self-guided pub crawl by train. As you travel, hop off at village stations to sample local real ales at friendly pubs, then hop back on the next train. Transport for Wales runs regular services along the line, making the trail flexible: you can start from either end and spend as much time as you like at each stop.

The route is famed for such views – verdant valleys and elegant stone railway architecture. For example, between Llandrindod Wells and Llanelli the train cuts through the Cambrian Mountains and corkscrews over viaducts and river valleys. Take in sights like the castle at Llanwrtyd Wells, the old railway bridges, and the wide sweep of the Loughor Estuary as you approach Swansea. At stations along the way, you’ll find easy access to hiking trails, historic inns, and local attractions. Knighton’s museum and Offa’s Dyke Centre, the Victorian spa town of Llandrindod Wells, and the castle in Llandovery are all just short walks or bus rides from the train – perfect for breaking up the journey with a day of exploration.

Discovering the Rail Ale Trail

The idea of a Rail Ale Trail is simple: use the train to explore pubs that serve good local beer. The Heart of Wales Line’s pub crawl isn’t a formal guided tour, but the concept caught on quickly. Arriva’s “100 Experiences” guide even included a cut-out passport for the trail: hop off at the featured pubs, get a stamp in your booklet, and if you collect them all you could earn a special T-shirt. Today the passport scheme isn’t active, but travellers still follow the spirit of the trail. Train schedules allow a leisurely pace – typically a few trains each weekday – so you can spend an hour or two at each stop. Plan to start early if you want to cover many pubs, or just pick a handful of favourites and take your time. A typical day might involve catching a morning service from Swansea (or Shrewsbury), visiting two or three pubs during the day, then returning by late afternoon train. Remember, the aim is to enjoy the journey as much as the destination – so keep alcohol consumption moderate and use the train’s timetable to get around safely.

Pubs Along the Heart of Wales Line

The Heart of Wales Rail Ale Trail highlights the best pubs and inns along the route. Here are a few standout stops, going roughly south to north (Swansea to Shrewsbury) through the Welsh valleys:

Knighton – The Kinsley

The Kinsley is a friendly, family-run freehouse that sits right opposite Knighton station, overlooking the River Teme. This pub only recently opened (in 2024) after an 18-year closure. Its comfortable interior and small beer garden make it a popular stop for rail ale tourists and walkers on Offa’s Dyke Path (which runs nearby). In good weather you can sip a pint outside under the Teme’s old iron footbridge, watching trains slow down for the station. The Kinsley typically offers two or three local ales on tap, rotating monthly; during my visit, I found a crisp Welsh bitter and a seasonal pale ale from nearby breweries. The landlord is knowledgeable and proud of his pub’s setting – ask about the town’s Anglo-Welsh heritage (Knighton sits partly in Shropshire) while you enjoy a cask beer.

Llanwrtyd Wells – Neuadd Arms Hotel

Just a few stops further north is the spa-town of Llanwrtyd Wells, which has one unmissable pub: the Neuadd Arms Hotel. This large Victorian coaching inn doubles as the taproom for the Heart of Wales Brewery (a six-barrel microbrewery created in 2004, now sadly on pause). Inside, the Bells Bar is the star attraction: a cosy room with a massive stone fireplace, old servant’s call-bells on the wall, and mismatched comfy chairs. The atmosphere is wonderfully rustic and cosy – think creaky wooden floors, local memorabilia, and a couple of pub dogs snoozing by the hearth. The hotel runs a popular beer festival every November, but even on an ordinary night the taps flow with interesting Welsh ales. (Before brewing was suspended in 2022, you could try the brewery’s award-winning Welsh Black stout or light Aur Cymru golden ale; now the bar stocks well-kept guest beers and cider from around Wales.) There’s also a lounge bar with a higher ceiling and more formal seating, but both bars are warm and welcoming. As Llanwrtyd’s main pub-hotel, the Neuadd has rooms if you need to stay overnight, plus hearty pub grub – their menu features Welsh lamb dishes, burgers, and plenty of filling pub classics.

Llandovery – Castle Hotel (Y Cwtsh)

A short hop north takes you to Llandovery. Here the historic Castle Hotel (often called Y Cwtsh) is worth a detour. It’s a 13th-century coaching inn with a modern twist: attached to the pub is the Y Cwtsh distillery and brewery, producing rum and gin as well as a seasonal real ale. The pub itself has a traditional cosy bar and a nice beer garden overlooking the River Towy and the ruined castle knoll. In warm weather it’s a peaceful spot to sample some unique beverages – try the signature Welsh Rum or their oak-aged premium ale. (Note: the Castle Hotel’s restaurant is very popular, so plan ahead if you intend to dine.) Other pubs in Llandovery include the Blue Bell micro-pub and the Royal Oak, but the Castle’s history and drinks selection make it a must for the trail. The town centre is charming – just a short walk through narrow streets leads to independent shops, a beautiful stone bridge over the Towy, and the castle ruins on the hillside. This is a good place to stretch your legs before catching the next train.

Llandeilo – The White Horse Inn

Further down the line in Llandeilo (Carmarthenshire), the real-ale focus continues. The highlight here is the White Horse Inn, a Grade-II listed 16th-century coaching inn. The multi-roomed interior still shows off its timber framing, and there’s a sunny beer garden at the front. True to the region, the White Horse offers excellent cask beers – primarily from the local Evan Evans brewery – and a warm, old-world pub atmosphere. Many locals and visitors mingle here, especially on market days. (A fun tip: Llandeilo hosts a popular food market each Saturday by the river – ideal for pairing with a pint at the White Horse.) The town itself is often called a “shopper’s paradise” thanks to its colourful high street lined with delis, craft shops and cafés, so you can grab Welsh cheeses or chocolates to take on your journey. Don’t miss the short walk up to Dinefwr Castle and Park just outside town – the view of Llandeilo from the castle is stunning, and you’ll work up an appetite for one of the pub’s hearty Sunday roasts. (The White Horse is about an 11-minute walk from the train station, passing through a quaint village square.)

Other Notable Stops

A few other pubs are worth a mention en route. In the spa town of Llandrindod Wells (reachable via Builth Road station), the Arvon Ale House is a CAMRA-award winning real-ale pub with an extensive tap list of Welsh craft beers. In Builth Wells itself the Royal Oak offers laid-back charm (though the station is a short bus ride away). Back towards Shrewsbury, the tiny villages of Craven Arms and Bucknell each have a traditional inn near the station (the Green Dragon and Railway Inn, respectively) which occasionally offer good ales – handy if you are staying overnight in the Welsh Marches. At the southern end, Llanelli’s town centre and Swansea harbour are slightly off the Heart of Wales route but close by – Llanelli is home to the Felinfoel Brewery (home of the Big Mare IPA) and Swansea’s rejuvenated Marina with new waterfront bars.

Beer, Food and Atmosphere

What ties these stops together is a focus on real ale and community pubs. Most places on the Trail are independent pubs rather than chain bars, so you’ll see a rotation of local brews, often including Welsh newcomers. Expect standard bitters and pale ales (for example, Evan Evans’ Gwenffrwd Red in Llandeilo) alongside more adventurous taps (stouts, farmhouse ales or seasonal specials in autumn). Ciders from Welsh orchards or scrumpy producers are also common. Beer prices are very reasonable by city standards – typically around £4–£5 for a pint – and many pubs serve substantial pub grub. The menus usually feature Welsh lamb or beef, ploughman’s lunches, and classic fish & chips. In winter you’ll find hot soups and stews; in summer, most pubs offer fresh sandwiches or a bar snack. Many establishments pride themselves on local produce: you might see rare Welsh Black beef burgers or home-baked cakes made with Carmarthenshire butter.

Service tends to be warm and personal. In small village pubs, the publican often doubles as chef, brewer or local historian – don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations. Most pubs are cash or card friendly; tipping isn’t expected at the bar, but a pound or two is always appreciated for good service. Pub opening times can be limited (some open only evenings or weekends), so it pays to check ahead. Generally, the pubs on the Heart of Wales Line are most active in the evenings and at weekends. If your train ride is on a weekday afternoon, you may find a few pubs closed, but stations like Llandeilo, Llandovery and Llanwrtyd have at least one pub open for lunch.

Planning Your Trip

To tackle the Heart of Wales Rail Ale Trail, you’ll want to allow at least two or three days if you plan to sample beers and food at multiple stops. The entire line takes about 3–4 hours one-way by train, but services are infrequent (typically two trains per direction each weekday, with extra service added on Saturdays). Transport for Wales operates modern diesel trains (Class 150/153), not steam heritage trains, so there are no extra tour fares – just book a standard Wales rail ticket. A rail pass or open return could work if you’re travelling to multiple stations. The trains are generally clean and comfortable but carry only a small café trolley on board, so consider packing snacks or purchasing food in stations (the café at Llandovery station has sandwiches) if you need more sustenance between stops.

Stations on the route are often request stops – you have to signal the driver to board or alight – so listen to announcements or ask staff when to request the halt. Do check the latest TfW timetable online, as services can change seasonally. Mobile phone coverage on parts of the line can be patchy; downloading the timetable and pub info in advance is wise.

For a one-day adventure, a popular option is to start early from Swansea on the south coast, ride up to Knighton or Llanwrtyd by lunchtime (stopping for a pint and meal), then continue on to Shrewsbury for the evening. The return trip allows you to pop off at different stations. Alternatively, base yourself in a scenic market town like Llandovery or Knighton overnight – both have a few B&Bs and hotels – and take shorter rides out to nearby pubs.

If you prefer to travel north-to-south, you can start at Shrewsbury (where transport links and city pubs abound) and work your way down. Shrewsbury itself has historic pubs like The Golden Cross (a Tudor tavern) if you want a pre-trail pint.

Travel tip: The Heart of Wales line is famous among rail enthusiasts, and special charter trains like the “Heart of Wales Pullman” occasionally run (usually as a wine or beer-tasting event). If you time it right, these can add a fun twist – but they usually require advance booking. In normal service, just remember that southern trains depart Shrewsbury for Swansea via the Heart of Wales line, while northern trains leave Swansea and reverse direction at Llandrindod Wells to continue on.

Overall Impression

The Heart of Wales Rail Ale Trail is a delightful mix of tranquil scenery and cosy pub life. Unlike busy tourist lines, this journey feels intimate – you share the carriage with local families, hikers and elderly couples as much as with beer enthusiasts. At the pub stops you won’t find rowdy crowds (few people travel this route purely for nightlife); instead, the mood is friendly and relaxed. A typical visitor might remember the peat-smoke aroma of the Neuadd Arms’ fireplace, the view of the Teme from The Kinsley’s bench, or the taste of a sharp Brettanomyces-infused golden ale in Llandeilo.

Every pub has its own character. Knighton’s station pub is quiet and unpretentious; Llanwrtyd’s Victorian hotel-bar combo feels like stepping back a century; Llandeilo’s White Horse has a hint of smugglers’ tunnels in its cellar (locals swear they exist). Even if you’re not a hardcore ale aficionado, this trail is about the experience: the feeling of sunlit stone stations, the chug of a diesel engine, the welcome of a hearth fire.

From a traveller’s perspective, it’s a very British sort of outing – no passports needed, just a rail ticket and a thirst for local flavour. I found every pint here was worth savouring. If you enjoy gentle train journeys and traditional pubs, the Heart of Wales Rail Ale Trail is hard to beat for a memorable getaway.