Looe Valley Line Rail Ale Trail – Scenic Cornwall Train Journey with Historic Pubs and Ales

Nestled in Cornwall, the Looe Valley Line Rail Ale Trail offers a delightful way to combine countryside train travel with local pub culture. Launched in 2004, this self-guided trail runs along the 8¾-mile Looe Valley Line from Liskeard to the fishing port of Looe. The partnership behind the trail (including the Devon & Cornwall Rail Partnership and CAMRA) promotes it with maps and leaflets highlighting scenic walks, wildlife spots and “country pubs” along the way. As you ride through the green river valley and seaside cliffs, you can hop off at designated pubs, flash your valid train ticket at the bar to collect a stamp, and savour Cornish ales and hospitality. Collecting six different pub stamps earns you an official Looe Valley Line Rail Ale Trail souvenir T-shirt. In sum, this trail has become a beloved Cornish tradition – a way to “drink in” both the landscape and local culture, all while boosting rural tourism.

The train journey itself is part of the appeal. Operated by GWR, the line is a quaint single-track branch that follows the winding East Looe River and climbs toward moorland before descending to the coast. In fact, the Looe Valley Line is explicitly promoted as a “scenic” community railway. Winding past wooded hillsides, the route offers glimpses of woodland, farmland and eventually the sparkling Looe estuary. Highlights include the impressive brick viaduct at Coombe and the steep wooded valley at Duloe. Trains on the Looe Valley Line run on a moderate schedule – typically Monday to Saturday outside summer (and daily in summer) – so it’s easy to plan a day trip. An Anytime Day Return ticket between Liskeard and Looe (around £6–£7) lets you hop on and off all day, especially if you use a GroupSave or local railcard discount. Most visitors will board at Liskeard (which connects to the Cornish main line) and end at Looe, or vice versa.

Planning Your Ale Trail Journey

Before setting off, pick up or print the official Looe Rail Ale Trail stamp sheet. Each pub on the trail will stamp your sheet when you buy a drink, as long as you show a valid same-day rail ticket. Unlike a pub crawl by car, the idea is to take it slow and savour both the beer and the scenery. In fact, the organisers explicitly advise doing the trail at a “leisurely pace” and not trying to visit all pubs in one go. With eight pubs on the list, you only need six stamps for the T-shirt prize, so you can pick a manageable selection for a half-day or full-day outing. It’s also wise to call ahead and check opening hours – many of these country pubs open later in the day or close on some weekdays. For example, The Plough at Duloe is only open Thursday to Saturday evenings. Plan your train times accordingly (timetables are available online) and leave plenty of time to walk or grab a taxi between the station and any pub that isn’t right next door.

Pubs on the Trail

Along the Looe Valley Line you’ll find a variety of pubs – from historic inns in Looe town to a rustic village pub near Liskeard. Each has its own charm, beer selection and often hearty food. Below are highlights of the trail pubs in route order from Liskeard to Looe:

The Red Lion (Liskeard): A traditional Cornish town pub just under a mile from Liskeard station, the Red Lion is a friendly local starting point. Inside you’ll find an L-shaped wooden bar with vintage decor and breweriana (old beer signs and memorabilia) behind it. The main bar area has a carpeted floor, a pool table and even a jukebox to press your luck on for just 50p. There’s also a little carpeted snug on the side for quieter chats. True to its description, this pub exudes “old-world character”: the snugs warm lighting and well-maintained real ales invite lingering. It does not serve food, but it more than makes up for that with a decent bar selection of cask ales and friendly service. Beer fans note that the staff keep the lines very clean and beers fresh – each pint tastes properly conditioned. (CAMRA’s branch notes it as a place where euchre and pool are played, and you’ll often overhear locals and railway enthusiasts comparing notes.) Since it’s only about a 16-minute walk from the station, the Red Lion is a convenient first or final stop. The happy-hour prices here are famously low, meaning you can enjoy a very affordable pint in Liskeard before heading south.

The Plough (Duloe): A mile outside Liskeard lies the village of Duloe. Tucked on Duloe’s village green, The Plough is a rustic country inn famed for its hearty pub fare. It’s a bit of an uphill trek: about a 1.3-mile walk from Causeland station (Duloe doesn’t have its own stop, so many walkers disembark at the next station up). This “traditional village pub” certainly feels like one – partially carpeted, with exposed beams and a slate-tiled floor. The long open bar area is divided into cozy corners, furnished with old sewing-machine tables and even a few church pews. Two working fireplaces (one with a real wood-burning stove, another a dummy with logs) add warmth on winter evenings. The Plough leans heavily toward food: in fact, it’s famous for a menu rich in local ingredients – especially freshly caught Cornish fish. Sunday roasts here are said to be outstanding (as are the homemade Cornish pasties and fish pies on weekdays). Yet it still always keeps at least one well-kept ale on tap. In short, The Plough offers a genuine home-style experience – pulled pork burgers, roast dinners and local brews are ordered at the bar. The friendly landlady will often chat with patrons, and despite its pedigree it feels unpretentious and down-to-earth. Note that it only opens midweek and weekends (check the current times), so plan Duloe either on your way home or with plenty of daylight.

The Globe Inn (Looe): Directly opposite Looe station on the East Looe side stands The Globe, a recently refreshed pub that re-opened in November 2024. With its dark wood facade and a bright mariner’s lantern sign, it looks the part of a classic Cornish inn. Inside is a single comfortable room with wooden tables, cushioned benches and maritime knick-knacks. It’s the perfect pub to hit as soon as you step off the train in Looe, since its entrance is literally a two-minute walk from the platform. The Globe serves a solid selection of ales (often including a local Sharp’s or Cornwall brewer) and a full menu of pub classics. Patrons report the steaks, pastas and fish dishes are well above average for a pub, and the Sunday roasts are generously portioned with all the trimmings. The atmosphere is warm and lively: at night you might hear chatter from locals and train travellers swapping stories. Because it’s on a busy street corner, The Globe can be lively but not cramped – it seats about 50, so even on a busy evening you can usually find a table or bar stool. It is owned by a local family of publicans, and they’ve clearly invested in modern comforts (good heating, clean décor) while keeping an authentic pub feel. Overall, The Globe is a convenient, friendly first port of call on the Looe Trail.

Harbour Moon Inn (West Looe): At the waterside on Looe’s West side, the Harbour Moon Inn lives up to its name with fantastic views over the harbour. Large windows wrap around this open-plan pub, framing the Looe Bridge and fishing boats bobbing at the quay. The décor is relaxed and nautically-themed: you’ll see ship wheels, model boats and ropes on the walls, and the floor is stone-tiled like the quay outside. Round or high-top tables fill the main room, with dartboard and a pool table tucked in a corner. It’s as much a restaurant as a pub – there’s a wide menu featuring fresh seafood, burgers and local dishes, and outdoor seating for meals in summer. The Harbour Moon is very family- and tourist-friendly. Although it doesn’t currently serve cask ales (it stocks lagers, ciders and bottled craft brews instead), it’s famed for its atmosphere and setting. On a sunny day its beer garden by the water is hard to beat. In cooler weather the cosy benches by the windows make a great perch with a pint and pie in hand, watching seals or gulls on the water. Live music and karaoke nights are occasional entertainments here, but at most times it’s mellow background music and good conversation. This pub really feels like a bit of seafaring Cornwall—no wonder it’s so popular among visitors.

Jolly Sailor Inn (West Looe): Claiming to be Looe’s oldest pub, the Jolly Sailor is a treasure trove of maritime history. Built around 1516, its low ceilings and thick wooden beams create a cozy “olde-worlde” atmosphere. Local lore says some of the very timbers in the walls came from Spanish Armada and Napoleonic warships, which the pub proudly displays on its website and walls. You enter into one of two separate bar rooms (CAMRA notes both are snug and look out onto Princes Square). The floors are slate- or wood-covered, which keep the pub refreshingly cool in summer and warm in winter. Nautical memorabilia is everywhere: look up to see a wooden oar hanging from the ceiling, or an old lifebuoy on the wall. The menu leans on pub classics – fish and chips (made with fresh local cod), steak, and a very good Sunday roast are among customer favourites – along with Cornish ales on tap. Locals rave about the Jolly’s ciders and real ales (it often offers half a dozen casks including ales from St Austell or Sharp’s), and the staff are happy to suggest a Cornish brew to try. In the evening, with the warm glow of low lamps and chatter in nautical tongues, the Jolly Sailor feels like stepping back into centuries of history. Be warned: tales of friendly ghosts are part of the folklore here, but most visitors simply remember the hearty welcome and the pub’s unique character. Don’t miss the narrow brick-lined backrooms or the steep wooden staircase up to the guest rooms above.

The Ship Inn (East Looe): Situated on Fore Street in East Looe, just a block from the fish quay, The Ship Inn is a classic bustling Cornwall pub. It’s a single large room but cleverly arranged: the CAMRA guide notes one “opened-out room with separate drinking spaces”, including a raised seating platform by the front windows. In practice, this means one area has the bar and some booths, while a few steps up give another level for tables and chairs – with a great view of the harbour on one side. At the back there’s a pool table and some dart machines, so it’s a good spot for a casual game. The Ship is lively and welcoming: expect a mixed crowd of young locals, visiting families and sailors off the boats. Weekend nights often feature live bands or DJs, while weekday quiz nights draw a friendly crowd. Food is served daily (pizza, burgers, Cornish pasties, fish) from a small kitchen – nothing fancy but comforting. Though not as old as some Looe pubs, The Ship has a genuine seaside pub feel. It’s painted bright white outside (easy to spot in the alley), and inside the walls are adorned with nautical photos and local art. If you’re looking for somewhere energetic to spend an evening pint in Looe, this is it.

The Fishermans Arms (Looe): A little tucked-away gem, the Fishermans Arms sits near the higher street level of East Looe. It looks as rustic as they come – think uneven stone walls, dark wood beams, and antique maritime signage – earning its reputation as a “haunted olde-worlde 16th century pub”. The interior is small but atmospheric: low ceilings, wood-panelled bar and narrow wooden barstools. There’s a pinball machine and a shuffleboard in one corner adding to the vintage vibe. Despite its name, there’s no modern seafood restaurant here – instead it’s a proper drinkers’ pub. The CAMRA listing says it’s a “drinkers’ pub”, and indeed the Fishermans Arms focuses on what’s behind the bar. It offers a rotating selection of guest ales (often including local ales from the moorland breweries) and a formidable line-up of spirits and whiskies. True to trail tradition, this one does not serve food, so plan accordingly (think hearty pub grub beforehand or afterwards). However, the lack of food is part of its charm; it’s simply a place to grab a pint (or two) and chat with locals. Locals and travellers alike praise the Fishermans Arms for its authenticity. In the quiet of the afternoon you might even catch one of the famous phantom tales – patrons have reported oddly moving glasses and disembodied voices (a fun legend the staff enjoy sharing). Whether or not you believe in ghosts, a pint here feels like a step back in time to 16th-century Looe.

Bullers Arms (East Looe): Last but not least is the Bullers Arms, a true one-room pub right in East Looe’s centre. It’s tiny – essentially one long, narrow bar room – but cram-packed with character. As CAMRA notes, locals call it their favourite since “visitors are made to feel at home”. Inside you’ll find just a few wooden tables and chairs (and the same pool table that nightly draws a friendly game). The Bullers often has nearly twenty different gins on the shelves, which hints at the focus on quality drinks rather than food. Live music is common (Friday nights), and there’s a regular quiz midweek – making it lively for such a small space. Its bar extends down one side of the room, with historic pub mirrors and old photos behind. For beer, cask ales are always on offer (often including a local St Austell or Sharp’s brew), but what really stands out is the atmosphere: you are elbow-to-elbow with friendly regulars, and everyone seems to know your name. Given its size, it can feel busy (especially at peak times) but that just adds to the buzz. After one or two pints here, you might understand why the Bullers is a beloved hidden gem – it’s one of those classic old Cornish ale houses that stays true to a centuries-old pub formula.

Tips and Tips for Travellers

To make the most of the Rail Ale Trail, here are a few practical pointers. First, pace yourself. Even though you only need six stamps for the prize shirt, don’t feel obliged to visit all pubs in one day. Spread the trail over multiple visits or pick the few pubs you most want to see. Trains on this line are relatively infrequent (often one per hour), so build in time for travel and breaks. If you’re travelling in a group of three or more, be sure to use a GroupSave ticket to save about one-third on fares. Regular local passengers (including Cornish residents) can also use the Devon & Cornwall Railcard to save on the return fare.

Also remember that several pubs on this trail have limited opening hours (often evenings only). The Red Lion and Jolly Sailor, for example, are open pretty much all day, but Duloe’s Plough only opens late afternoon and The Globe is midday to late evening. Check each pub’s schedule (websites or phone) before setting out. Take the official stamp sheet with you (it’s free to download from the Rail Partnership website) and fill in each pub’s box. After collecting 6 different stamps, mail or email the sheet per the instructions to claim your t-shirt – a nice souvenir of your day. Finally, enjoy the journey: sit back on the branch-line train, note the green river and woodland, and appreciate rural Cornwall. Many travellers mention that half the fun is just soaking in the view with a pint in hand.

Final Thoughts

The Looe Valley Line Rail Ale Trail is a singular way to experience Cornwall. By combining a picturesque short rail journey with visits to historic and characterful pubs, it offers a wholesome day out in Britain’s finest pub tradition. Over a decade after its launch in 2004, the trail remains popular because it captures the essence of the region: small stations, rolling countryside, and a hearty pint at a friendly local. Even non-drinkers or families can enjoy the line for its scenery and the novelty of a seaside smokehouse lunch (or ice cream) at Looe, before toasting with a non-alcoholic cider at one of the pubs. In my experience, travelling the Looe Valley Rail Ale Trail feels like a modern-day version of “let the railway drive you to the pub,” complete with stunning views and genuine Cornish charm. Whether you’re a train enthusiast, a beer lover, or simply out for a relaxing day in Cornwall, this trail is worth the ticket. So grab your travel card, board the train at Liskeard, and set off on an unforgettable Cornish adventure – complete with old pubs, local ales, and memories that will last far longer than the T-shirt.