Maritime Line Rail Ale Trail – Cornwall by Train and Beer

The Maritime Line Rail Ale Trail is a self-guided day-trip in Cornwall that combines a vintage branch-line train journey with visits to cosy local pubs between Truro and Falmouth. Launched in 2003 by the Devon & Cornwall Rail Partnership, the trail was designed to encourage travellers to hop off at stations and sample Cornish ales along the route. The concept is simple: buy a one-day train ticket, ride the 25-minute branch line from Truro to Falmouth (passing through rural meadows and farmland) and hop off wherever you like at a listed pub. Each time you visit and purchase a drink or meal, the pub will stamp your trail card. Collect eight stamps (eight pubs) and you can claim a free commemorative T-shirt. The scheme encourages a relaxed pace – organisers explicitly remind participants to “take it easy” and not try to do it all in one go.

Route and Scenery

The Maritime Line links the “bustling Cathedral city of Truro” with the historic harbour port of Falmouth. Once a mail-train route, today it’s a tranquil rural branch line. Great Western Railway diesel trains now depart about every half-hour (following upgrades in 2009) between Truro and Falmouth Docks. The entire journey takes roughly 25 minutes – but it feels much longer thanks to the scenery. The train winds through open countryside and wooded valleys, crossing several old stone viaducts. For example, the Collegewood Viaduct near Falmouth carries the line over the Carrick Roads estuary, with views of sailing boats below. On a clear day you may even spot the coast of Falmouth Bay as you approach the southern terminus. The short trip never feels rushed, making it ideal for a relaxed outing.

Pubs Along the Route

Passengers on the trail can choose from about ten traditional pubs (clustered in Truro, Perranwell, Penryn and Falmouth) known for character and quality ales. In Truro there are three stops. The Wig & Pen sits right opposite Truro station; it’s a spacious pub described as a “friendly city pub with plenty of space inside and out”. It has a long bar of St Austell ales and rotating guest brews, and serves hearty pub fare (the Sunday roast, with beef or lamb and all the trimmings, is especially praised). Nearby, the City Inn has a cosy 16th-century interior with low beams and an oak-panelled bar. It maintains a cellar stock of quality real ales and Cornish ciders. A short walk along the river leads to the Old Ale House, a larger multi-room pub that proudly “specialises in real ales and locally grown food”. (It’s a drinker’s pub: traditionally it offered only snacks and encouraged bringing your own food – an old custom, though reviews now note it also does stone-baked pizzas and daily specials.)

Leaving Truro, the first village stop is Perranwell. Here the Royal Oak awaits. It’s a classic Cornish country inn set on the green, noted as a “charming” pub. Rustic flagstone floors and a roaring fire give it a very cosy feel on a chilly day. The Royal Oak’s menu features home-cooked classics – think steak-and-ale pie, ploughman’s lunch or sausages and mash – alongside at least one guest ale or Cornish cider on tap. Regulars often gather here for Sunday lunch or an early-evening pint after the train, making the service feel warm and neighbourhood-like. (Note: this is a small village pub, so hours can be limited – it’s wise to check closing time, especially in winter.)

Next is Penryn, a small historic market town. Two pubs here are on the trail. Seven Stars (Penryn) is a traditional stone pub and inn with its own microbrewery. You can often try the brewer’s latest experimental ales on tap, plus their regular beers. The pub’s interior is relaxed and slightly old-fashioned (sandstone walls, patched carpets), and it has a beer garden out back which is lovely in fine weather. The other Penryn stop is The Famous Barrel, located on the quay by the river. This snug pub has a nautical theme (and often live acoustic music in the evenings). It serves a selection of local ales and ciders; expect to see staples like Sharps Doom Bar or local craft kegs. The walls are decorated with vintage maritime posters, giving it a friendly waterfront vibe. (If you arrive late, note this pub may close earlier than city bars, so plan accordingly.)

Just south of Penryn is Penmere station. Here you’ll find another Seven Stars (Penmere) pub in a 17th-century building. It has a very “old pub” character – thick wooden beams, low lighting – and proudly carries no TVs or piped music, living up to its motto “Conversation, not entertainment.” The landlord typically wields an old-fashioned upright handpump and walks around chatting. You’ll likely find an amber ale and a mild on cask (often from Cornish brewers) and maybe a Cornish cider. It’s a peaceful spot – you can sit by a window and watch the branch line trains arrive, or warm up by the fireplace with a pint.

Finally, Falmouth town itself has three Ale Trail pubs. The first is The Front, a sleek beer bar right on the Custom House Quay. It’s popular with ale aficionados: in summer it can have up to 15 real ales on tap at once. Their deck seating overlooks Falmouth Harbour, making it a top choice on sunny days (if you time it right, you might sip a pint while watching paddle boards glide by). Next is the Quayside Inn on Arwenack Street. This is a more traditional pub with great harbour views. It’s known for its patio tables outside by the water. Inside, expect cask ales and cider; the pub often highlights a few Cornish brews like Trelawny or HSD. Finally, just off the main quay is The Moth & The Moon, a small gastropub with an artful interior and a sheltered terrace. It focuses on quality beer (often local craft taps) and simple seasonal pub food. This one tends to draw a younger crowd, and often earns praise for its friendly service.

All these pubs actively welcome Rail Ale Trail visitors. Each will stamp your trail card when you make a purchase, and the official rules state that collecting eight stamps (from any pubs on the route) earns you a free Trail T-shirt. In fact, many publicans note that the Trail has brought extra business: one Landlord remarked that the scheme brings “groups that wouldn’t have come otherwise” into his bar. (It’s polite to show your stamp sheet when ordering – the pubs typically keep the forms at the bar.) The journey home can wait – these pubs expect you to linger, enjoy your pint, and chat with locals. In short, the Maritime Line Ale Trail pubs are set up for you to relax and soak up the Cornish pub atmosphere.

Train Travel and Practical Tips

Getting around is straightforward. A single off-peak Day Return ticket from Truro to Falmouth costs only about £6.30 (2025 fare). This ticket allows unlimited hop-on/hop-off travel in one direction, so you can visit as many pubs as you like between Truro and Falmouth. If you’re travelling in a small group, a GroupSave fare (for 3–9 people) cuts roughly one-third off each fare. Locals can use the Devon & Cornwall Railcard for similar savings (one-third off for those living in Cornwall). You can buy tickets online via the GWR website or at any staffed station. For a very large group (10 or more), it’s best to arrange a group booking with Great Western Railway in advance.

A few planning tips help the day go smoothly. First, download or print the official Maritime Line Ale Trail stamp sheet and carry it with you. Show this sheet each time you order at a pub so they can stamp it. Second, double-check opening hours for each pub. Many rural pubs close early (often by 10pm) and some shut mid-afternoon except on weekends. Calling ahead is wise, especially if you have a large party. Third, keep a printed train timetable handy or download it; mobile reception can be patchy in Cornwall, and you don’t want to miss the next train if the service is running a few minutes early. Note that trains run less frequently after about 7–8pm, so plan your return journey accordingly if you stay late.

The Maritime Line is generally quite accommodating. You’re welcome to bring bikes (there’s room for a few on board) and dogs (they’re common on local services) on the trains. (Just be sure your dog is on a lead and well-behaved in a pub setting, and buy them a bowl of water, as many pubs are dog-friendly.) For families, several pubs have non-alcoholic drinks, basic snacks, and often a dartboard or board games, making it possible to enjoy the trail with children in tow (perhaps sharing snacks and doing quizzes between sips). Importantly, the pubs take responsible drinking seriously. The official trail site even reminds participants to “drink responsibly” – take your time, hydrate, and remember there’s a train to catch later.

Eating, Drinking and Atmosphere

These pubs are not mere watering holes – almost all serve food or at least snacks. Expect classic British pub dishes: fish and chips, steak or sausage pies, burgers and chunky chips. Many menus also include local Cornish items – pasties, Cornish ploughman’s with heavy cheddar, or cawl (a traditional soup). On Sundays especially, several pubs run a roast dinner special (roast beef or lamb with vegetables and Yorkshire puddings), which often attracts local families; it’s wise to book a table for Sunday lunch if you can. Vegetarian and vegan options have become more common in recent years (several pubs now list at least one meat-free burger or shepherd’s pie alternative), so most dietary needs can be accommodated.

Beer lovers will appreciate the care these pubs take with real ale. Each bar tends to keep its casks in top condition – lines are cleaned regularly and taps are well-maintained – so pints tend to be fresh and creamy. Ales on offer are typically a mix of familiar and local. You’ll often see Cornish favourites like Sharp’s Doom Bar or Tribute Pale Ale, alongside one or two taps devoted to tiny Cornish breweries (many pubs on the trail rotate guest ales, so each visit might offer something new). Ciders are also popular – look for labels from Somerset or Cornwall (like Thatchers or Cornish Orchards) if you want a break from hops. If ale isn’t your preference, all pubs also serve lager, cider or basic spirits and wines, but the stars here are definitely the hand-pulled ales and local ciders.

The overall atmosphere on the Maritime Line trail is warm and unpretentious. These are characterful community pubs, not sports bars or nightclubs. Interiors often feature exposed beams, old brick or stone floors, and open hearths. You’ll hear the soft strum of folk music in one pub or the low murmur of conversation in another. The crowd is pleasantly mixed: on a weekday afternoon you might find local farmers, railway staff and retirees; on a weekend you’ll also see groups of tourists, families and beer enthusiasts. Regular patrons tend to give newcomers a nod and a smile, and bar staff usually remember names or orders once you’ve stopped by a couple of times. It’s common to strike up conversations with locals over the counter – Cornish people love talking about their county’s beers and history.

Evenings can get lively, especially on summer weekends or pub quiz nights, but rarely raucous. A few pubs host local music (a guitar-and-vocals set at the Famous Barrel, or a folk duo at the Seven Stars, for example) but there are no pounding DJ clubs here. Generally speaking, after a full day you can expect contented cheer rather than chaos. The pubs often have darts or skittles (throwing games) and maybe a pool table, but these are for casual fun. The emphasis is on enjoying good conversation and a well-poured drink. As one visitor put it, the Rail Ale Trail pubs “feel like a village fête on wheels” – everyone is in good spirits, especially after a train ride to work up an appetite.

In fine weather you can often sit outside. Many pubs on the trail have beer gardens or outside tables. For example, the Seven Stars in Penryn has a sunny courtyard, the Quayside Inn has a few harbour-view benches, and The Front’s quay-side deck is a popular perch. These outdoor spots fill up fast when the sun is out. Even if the sky isn’t blue, having the option to step outside can make the trip pleasant (Cornish summers can be unpredictable). The pubs usually provide umbrellas or heaters for chillier evenings.

One charming detail: the pubs often lean into the railway theme. You might spot train memorabilia on the walls (old station signs, railway lanterns or even model trains). Many will have a chalkboard or menu referencing the trail. Staff frequently ask cheerfully, “Are you collecting stamps today?” and fellow patrons often exchange tips on the fastest train connections. By the end of the day, you may find yourself chatting about railway history or comparing notes on local ales just as much as complaining about the size of your meal.

Surroundings and Attractions

While the Trail’s focus is on pubs and ale, there are lovely sights nearby if you want to break up the drinking. Truro itself is worth a visit before you set off – it has a grand Victorian cathedral, a pretty high street (with independent shops and an art cinema), and even an old cider house on the riverbank. If you arrive in Truro with extra time, grab a coffee on Boscawen Street or browse a bookshop in the pedestrian mall.

Penryn is small but historic. The town square and its hall (a Tudor building) are right behind the train station. You can easily detrain and wander a couple of minutes to admire the narrow lanes lined with old stone cottages. A short footpath from Penryn leads down to Restronguet Creek, a peaceful estuary – if you feel energetic, walk about 10 minutes from Penryn station for a creekside view.

The biggest attractions come at the Falmouth end. If time allows, consider staying overnight in Falmouth and exploring the town after the trail. A few minutes’ walk from the docks is Pendennis Castle, Henry VIII’s coastal fort with harbour vistas. Nearby is the National Maritime Museum Cornwall, which showcases naval history and marine science (it’s housed in a modern building by the water). Falmouth also boasts pretty beaches: Gyllyngvase and Swanpool are just a short drive or bus ride away (if you have a car) and make a fine morning swim before boarding the train. The harbour area itself has lively shops, art galleries and ice cream parlours for extra fun once your pubs close.

Rail enthusiasts will find small pleasures too. The branch line passes just under the impressive stone viaduct at Carnon (dating from 1863), which you can glimpse between stations. The line’s original 19th-century character survives in places like Penryn’s platform (you’ll see where the old roof once stood) or the wooden waiting shelter at Perranwell. On a clear day keep an eye out for seabirds flying over the creek or hillsides. In other words, even if you weren’t thirsty, the journey itself is quite scenic – glimpses of creeks, trees, and villages make it more than just a pub crawl; it’s a Cornish countryside tour with pubs as pit stops.

Tickets, Costs and Timing

A day on the Maritime Line Rail Ale Trail can be very affordable. A round-trip train ticket (Truro–Falmouth off-peak) is on the order of £6–7. If your group of 3–9 takes advantage of GroupSave, you’ll each pay only about £4–5. Pints in these pubs typically cost around £4–5, and a main meal about £10–15. In practice, a single person who has a pint and a meal at two pubs would spend around £25–30 in total, including train fare. Many say that’s excellent value for a full day of travel plus food and drink in rural Cornwall. Don’t forget: the commemorative T-shirt is free once you’ve got eight stamps, so that’s a nice souvenir that doesn’t add to the bill.

Timing is key for a good experience. A common itinerary is to split the trail over two days. For instance, take a late-morning train to Truro, enjoy lunch at one Truro pub and a quick pint at another, then hop the early afternoon train to Perranwell and dine at the Royal Oak. From there, proceed to Penryn for an evening drink or two. Stay overnight in Penryn or Falmouth (both have small B&Bs and hotels). The next morning, continue with Falmouth’s pubs in daylight and catch a return train in the afternoon or early evening. This way you don’t feel rushed and can enjoy each stop fully.

It’s also possible to do the whole trail in one long day, though it’s a lot. If you try, start very early (the first train from Truro stops at Perranwell around 09:30). A hard-charging plan might be: Truro pub at 10am, train to Perranwell by 11, drink there by noon, train to Penryn for lunch at 1pm, two pubs by 4pm, then last hop to Falmouth for one final pint at 5–6pm. Keep in mind that trains back after about 7–8pm are sparse, so watch the clock. Personally, most do recommend splitting the trip – this isn’t a sprint but a leisurely outing. And of course, bring water and snacks along the way to stay comfortable (pub staff won’t mind if you nibble a few crisps while you sip).

Final Thoughts

The Maritime Line Rail Ale Trail is a distinctive Cornwall experience that has delighted beer lovers and railway enthusiasts alike since its inception. It offers a little bit of everything: a short scenic train ride, historic towns and villages, friendly pubs, and – of course – great real ale. By the end of the trail, many visitors say the highlight was the journey and the camaraderie just as much as any individual pint. Swapping stories on the platform, meeting chatting locals over a game of darts, and taking in the views from the carriage make lasting memories.

For anyone who enjoys both good beer and picturesque travel, this trail is hard to beat. It’s also a wonderful way to support local communities: each pub depends on continuing traditions of hospitality, and the trail brings in customers who might otherwise never wander into a country inn. Just remember to drink responsibly and plan well – plenty of people do the trail year after year, often in groups celebrating reunions or birthdays.

The Maritime Line Rail Ale Trail is the perfect blend of Cornish charm and real ale culture. It captures the friendly, laid-back spirit of the West Country. If you undertake it, you’ll come away with full glasses, fuller bellies, and a deeper appreciation for Cornwall’s railway heritage.