Regatta Line Rail Ale Trail – Riverside Pubs, Real Ales and a Scenic Branch Line Adventure

The Henley branch of the Great Western Railway – fondly nicknamed the “Regatta Line” – runs from Twyford in Berkshire to Henley-on-Thames in Oxfordshire. It’s a short, single-track railway (about 4¾ miles long) with just four stations, inaugurated in 1857 to link Henley’s famous Regatta with the main line. Today it’s a delightful scenic branch line that still carries throngs of visitors during the annual Henley Royal Regatta, and at other times serves as a tranquil route through the Thames Valley. What better way to explore this picturesque slice of countryside than by turning it into a rail ale trail – hopping on and off the train to visit characterful pubs at each stop?

Riding the Regatta Line is simple: Great Western Railway runs local trains (class 165/166 “Turbo” units) every half hour or so between Twyford and Henley, taking only about 12 minutes end to end. The route itself is charming – you’ll trundle past green fields, riverside woodlands, and even cross the River Thames on a wrought-iron bridge near Shiplake. Each station along the way is near at least one pub (or several in Henley’s case), making it easy to plan a day of real ale adventures by rail. This guide will take you through the best pub stops at Twyford, Wargrave, Shiplake, and Henley-on-Thames, highlighting what makes each watering hole special – from traditional village inns to riverside taverns – all while using the train to connect them. So grab a train timetable (they often display live departure times right in the pub at Twyford!), and get ready to discover real ale by rail on the Henley Regatta Line.

Twyford – Starting the Journey in a Village Hub

Begin your journey at Twyford, the junction where the branch line diverges from the main Great Western main line. Twyford is a large village with a friendly community feel, and it offers a couple of excellent pubs to kick off the ale trail before or immediately after you board the branch line train. The standout choice near Twyford station is The Golden Cross, a 19th-century pub practically on the station’s doorstep. The Golden Cross is a beer-focused local (described as “beer led” by CAMRA) that embraces its role as a gateway for rail travellers – it even displays live train departure times inside so you won’t miss your connection while enjoying a pint. This traditional pub has a modest, unpretentious charm with a focus on well-kept real ales. As a free house, it usually offers a rotating selection of brews; you might find a local ale on tap (for instance, Marlow’s Rebellion IPA or another regional specialty) alongside classic bitters or a craft guest beer. The atmosphere is that of a true village local – expect to see a mix of commuters grabbing a quick half, cricket club members (the pub supports the local cricket club) and ale aficionados swapping stories at the bar. In warmer months, the Golden Cross’s secluded beer garden out back is a pleasant spot to relax before catching the train.

If you have time for a short stroll into Twyford’s centre (about 5–10 minutes from the station), another option is The Duke of Wellington on High Street. This pub is a community hub in its own right – it’s known for hearty pub food served at lunchtime and an “authentic pub experience” that includes live sports on multiple screens and occasional live music. The Duke of Wellington has a broader appeal for families and sports fans – you could tuck into fish and chips or a burger here, or join locals cheering on a football match with a pint of ale or lager. It’s a larger, livelier venue than the Golden Cross, so depending on whether you crave a quiet pint or some pub buzz, Twyford caters to both. Once you’re ready to embark, head to the station and hop on the little 2-coach train bound for Henley. In just a few minutes, you’ll be approaching the next stop on our ale trail.

Wargrave – A Riverside Village Pub Stop

Stepping off at Wargrave station, you’ll find yourself in a leafy Thames-side village that boasts several inviting pubs within a short walk. Wargrave’s pub scene is impressively lively for a small village – each pub has its own character, so it’s worth considering a couple of stops here if time allows. The nearest pub to the station is about a 5-minute walk: The Greyhound on Church Street, a classic street-corner local. The Greyhound is beloved by villagers as a no-frills, traditional ale pub – it’s small and cosy, with low ceilings and a carpeted bar adorned by a collection of hanging jugs and vintage knick-knacks. There’s a tiny snug and a patio garden out back, perfect for summer. Don’t expect gourmet food (it’s largely a drink-focused pub, perhaps a simple snack offering), but do expect a well-poured pint. The Greyhound often features Rebellion Brewery’s IPA (from nearby Marlow) as a staple ale, which regulars praise for its taste. On our visit, the choice was indeed Rebellion IPA and Fuller’s London Pride on handpump – a solid line-up that shows the pub’s commitment to quality brews. This pub is very much about mingling and music (you might catch some classic rock on the jukebox) in an easy-going atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where the publican and locals chat with newcomers, making you feel welcome. If you’re doing the trail on a weekend, note that the Greyhound (and Wargrave generally) can get pleasantly busy – evidence of the village’s sociable spirit.

Just around the corner on Wargrave’s High Street, you’ll find The Bull Inn and The White Hart, two historic inns practically next door to each other. Both date back centuries and served as coaching inns in bygone days. The Bull Inn (also known as The Bull Hotel) has a handsome brick façade and often offers accommodation alongside its pub, making it a potential overnight stop for those stretching the ale trail into a weekend. Inside, you’ll find old wooden beams and a traditional menu of British pub classics. Meanwhile, The White Hart (with its distinctive white-painted exterior) is another old inn that has a reputation for home-cooked food and well-kept ales. These pubs tend to have a relaxed, family-friendly vibe during the day – great if you want to have a meal. They serve ales from regional breweries; you might find Brakspear Bitter or other cask ales available, reflecting Henley’s brewing heritage (Brakspear was founded in Henley). While these two inns are solid choices, the star of Wargrave’s pub scene for many is down by the river…

For a truly scenic stop, head a few minutes further down High Street toward the Thames and The St George & Dragon. This pub is perched right by the riverbank, offering lovely views and a refined yet friendly atmosphere. After a short walk, you’ll spot its spacious courtyard and beer garden overlooking the water – an ideal setting especially in warm weather. The St George & Dragon is a “stylish pub” that “boasts a lovely courtyard and garden, making it an ideal spot for romantic evenings or casual gatherings with friends. Overlooking the serene banks of the River Thames, it offers a delightful escape from everyday life.”. Indeed, watching boats glide by as you sip a pint here is a highlight of the Henley branch line trail. Despite its upmarket polish (the interior blends chic decor with traditional oak beams), it’s a welcoming place for all. Real ales are available on tap – often including popular regional choices like Fuller’s London Pride or Rebellion ales, alongside a rotating guest ale. The pub’s focus is also on food, with an extensive menu that adds a bit of Mediterranean flair to British cuisine. You might treat yourself to a plate of beer-battered fish and chips or something more adventurous; the kitchen has a good reputation. Given its riverside location, the St George & Dragon can get busy on sunny weekends, so if it’s crowded, just grab your pint and enjoy the river view from the garden. This pub nicely balances the trail so far – after the Greyhound’s rustic charm, the St George & Dragon offers a scenic, relaxing interlude. Once you’ve savoured Wargrave’s offerings, wander back to the station (don’t worry, it’s a short walk from any of these pubs) and catch the next train to Shiplake, just a couple of minutes up the line.

Shiplake – Country Inn Hospitality by the Thames Path

Shiplake station drops you in Lower Shiplake, a peaceful little hamlet that feels delightfully rural. While Shiplake is the smallest stop on the line, it still provides a memorable pub experience, thanks to one standout establishment: The Baskerville Arms. Located just a 2-minute stroll from the station, the Baskerville Arms is an award-winning inn that perfectly captures country hospitality. In fact, “The Baskerville Arms is an award-winning inn known for its dining innovation, perfect for locals, hungry Thames-path walkers and those further afield. Enjoy local ales, fine wines or a wide range of spirits alongside indulgent courses either in the country-style garden or the cosy stylish pub.”. This sums up its appeal nicely – whether you’re a walker coming off the Thames Path (which runs adjacent to the pub) or a rail-tripper, the Baskerville welcomes you with warmth and quality.

Despite its humble village exterior, inside you’ll find a modern yet characterful pub-restaurant. The bar area is intimate and stocked with a great selection of local ales – often including brews from independent breweries around Oxfordshire and Berkshire. Many ale aficionados applaud the Baskerville for keeping Brakspear ales on tap (a nod to the area’s heritage) as well as guest ales that might hail from the likes of Loddon Brewery or Rebellion. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to let you sample a brew. If you’re visiting around lunchtime or dinner, consider eating here because the food is a highlight. The kitchen has earned accolades for its creative take on pub dining – you might find anything from an elevated steak-and-ale pie to more gourmet dishes. On Sundays they do a popular roast. Portions are generous, and you can taste why this inn has won dining awards. The ambiance is another strong point: there’s a traditional wood-panelled dining room and a snug bar, plus a garden area for outdoor pints. They even have an outdoor “Hound Bar” and a dog-friendly setup (complete with a dog-washing station for muddy pups) which underscores how much this place embraces Thames Path walkers and four-legged friends.

Shiplake’s Baskerville Arms doubles as a B&B inn, with a handful of cosy en-suite rooms upstairs. So if you’re turning the rail ale trail into an overnight excursion, staying here would be a treat – you’d get to roll off the train, enjoy an evening of fine food and ale, and sleep in a comfy country inn (waking up to a hearty breakfast). Even if you’re not staying, the Baskerville provides that classic country inn feel: friendly chat with the landlord, perhaps a rambler recounting their day’s hike by the bar, and always the promise of a quality pint. In summer, the garden is fragrant and inviting; in winter, you might find a crackling fireplace indoors. Given Shiplake is a quiet spot, the Baskerville is usually the main draw – so you’ll likely encounter locals from the village and nearby hamlets, all of whom are proud of this gem. After a refreshing stop at Shiplake, the final leg of the journey awaits – next stop, Henley-on-Thames, the terminus of the line and a town famous for rowing, regattas and an abundance of pubs!

Henley-on-Thames – Finale in the Historic Regatta Town

The Angel on the Bridge pub in Henley-on-Thames sits right by the 18th-century bridge – Henley’s only pub directly on the River Thames, with a popular waterside terrace.
Arriving in Henley-on-Thames by train, you’re just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre of this elegant market town. Henley is renowned worldwide for its Royal Regatta, and the rowing heritage is palpable – you might even spot rowers carrying their oars near the station. For pub lovers, Henley is a paradise: the town is blessed with numerous traditional pubs, many of them centuries old and steeped in history. In fact, there’s an official Henley Ale Trail run by the local Brakspear brewery, challenging visitors to collect stamps from 10 pubs around town. You certainly won’t lack choices here. To keep our rail ale trail manageable, we’ll highlight a few must-visit pubs in Henley that capture the town’s character and offer a satisfying end to your journey.

A stone’s throw from the station (and right by the river) is the iconic Angel on the Bridge. As its name suggests, this pub is located at the foot of Henley’s bridge, literally overlooking the Thames – in fact, it’s Henley’s only pub that sits directly on the riverbank, making it hugely popular with locals and visitors alike. The Angel dates back to 1728, and it exudes all the warmth and quirkiness you’d hope for in an 18th-century inn. Inside, it’s a warren of cosy rooms with low ceilings, wooden beams, and a traditional decor, while outside it boasts a riverside terrace right by the water. On a sunny day, that terrace is prime real estate for enjoying a pint as boats pass and swans glide on the river. The pub is often “described as warm, welcoming and cosy”, with a friendly atmosphere to match the idyllic views. Naturally, they serve Brakspear ales (Brakspear’s historic brewery was in Henley, so it’s fitting) – you can usually get a pint of Brakspear Gravity (a classic bitter) or Brakspear Oxford Gold, among other options. They take good care of their cask ales here, knowing many ale aficionados come specifically for an authentic pint. During Regatta week, the Angel on the Bridge is famously busy and festive – the terrace becomes a prime spot to celebrate. But at any time of year, this pub is a standout for its location and ambiance. If you’re hungry, the Angel offers a menu of home-style pub food (think ploughman’s lunches, sandwiches, fish pies, etc.), which you can enjoy while gazing at the graceful Henley Bridge. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting Henley pub to begin with – it truly lets you “escape and watch the river go by” as the bustle of town fades away.

From the Angel, a short walk into the town’s charming streets will reveal many more pubs. One you shouldn’t miss is The Bull on Bell Street, located just two blocks up from the river on (as the name says) Bell Street. The Bull on Bell Street is a pub with a fascinating blend of history and modern flair. It occupies a site near the original Brakspear brewery (dating back to the 18th century), and the pub building itself has roots in the 1500s, but step inside and you’ll find a stylish, contemporary gastropub space. Following a big renovation in 2013, the Bull introduced its very own microbrewery on-site – the Bell Street Brewery, visible behind glass within the pub. “With a history dating back to the 16th century, The Bull on Bell Street is a Henley pub gem boasting delicious food, its own micro-brewery, and gorgeous interiors to boot.”. Indeed, it’s a unique thrill to drink a beer that’s been brewed just a few feet away; the Bell Street Brewery produces limited-run beers (often under the Brakspear name) that you can only find here or at select Brakspear pubs. For example, they’ve brewed a Bell Street Pale Ale and other seasonal ales that might be on tap alongside the usual Brakspear line-up. The Bull is also known for its food – it’s a sizeable place with a dining room, conservatory, and beer garden, serving everything from brunch to evening meals. You could easily make this a lunch stop on your Henley visit if you haven’t eaten yet. Whether you sit in the buzzy bar or the quieter dining area, you’ll appreciate the mix of historical elements (exposed brick, old beams) and trendy décor. The pub tends to have a lively but relaxed vibe, attracting everyone from Henley office workers to groups of friends on a night out. Live music or special events occasionally take place here (for instance, jazz evenings or even quirky events like a silent disco night around New Year), adding to the fun. In sum, The Bull on Bell Street provides a modern craft beer twist to Henley’s pub scene – a perfect complement to the traditional boozers.

If you have time for more, Henley offers plenty: for a slice of history, pop into The Old Bell on Bell Street, which claims to be in a 14th-century building and oozes character with its low timbered ceilings. It’s a smaller, snug pub that serves real ales and often has live music nights. Another gem is the Row Barge Inn, tucked away on West Street – a few minutes’ walk from the centre but worth the stroll for serious ale lovers. The Row Barge is one of Henley’s oldest coaching inns and a frequent winner of local CAMRA “Pub of the Year” awards. It’s a “small and convivial old pub with low beams, hidden up a back street – worth seeking out,” featuring a secluded sun-trap beer garden and a reputation for excellent cask ale quality. Don’t be surprised to find some unique brews on tap there; they rotate a variety of local and national ales (and have been known to serve a great pint of Brakspear Special or other rarities). The Three Tuns on Market Place is another historic pub (16th century) with a cozy atmosphere and good ales, and The Little Angel on the far side of Henley Bridge (technically in Remenham) is famous as a post-regatta haunt for rowers, with a lovely rustic interior and garden. As Henley is a compact town, you can easily do a mini circuit of the centre to visit a few pubs – just pace yourself and enjoy the walk past Henley’s pretty brick-and-flint buildings and the riverside meadows. Whether you prefer an old-fashioned inn or a trendy bar, Henley will have something to delight you as the culmination of your rail ale trail.

Practical Tips for the Rail Ale Trail

Exploring the Regatta Line rail ale trail is straightforward and rewarding, but here are a few tips to make the most of it. Plan your train connections: services between Henley and Twyford typically run twice an hour (though in evenings and on Sundays it may be hourly). The journey is short, but be mindful of the last train back to Twyford (especially if you’re returning to London or Reading the same day). Fortunately, some pubs (like the Golden Cross in Twyford) helpfully display train times, and Henley station is so central that it’s easy to dash from a pub to your departing train if needed. Buying a Day Return to Henley-on-Thames is usually the best ticket value, and it allows you unlimited travel back and forth on the branch line in case you want to bounce between stops.

Keep in mind that Wargrave and Shiplake are request stops – on the train, you may need to inform the guard or press the stop button to alight there, and when boarding from those stations, signal clearly to the driver as the train approaches. It’s all part of the quaint branch line experience. Walking distances: All the mentioned pubs are within a short walk of their stations (generally under 10 minutes). Wargrave’s farthest pub (St George & Dragon) is roughly an 8-minute walk; in Henley, everything in town is 5-10 minutes’ walk. Shiplake’s Baskerville is conveniently almost next door to the station, and Twyford’s pubs are 2-5 minutes away.

As with any ale trail, drink responsibly and savour the journey. The point here is not to race through pints but to enjoy the atmosphere, scenery and camaraderie at each stop. Consider spacing out your drinks or opting for half-pints at each pub if you want to sample many brews. Also, food is your friend – you might lunch at one of the pubs (say, a hearty meal in Wargrave or Shiplake) or grab snacks to keep you going. All the highlighted pubs offer food of some kind, with some (St George & Dragon, Baskerville, Bull on Bell Street) being particularly good for sit-down meals. Don’t forget to hydrate with water as well, especially if it’s a hot summer day at the regatta or you’re walking between spots.

Lastly, enjoy the unique charm of pairing rail travel with pub exploration. The Henley Regatta Line has a character all its own – from the moment you board the little train at Twyford, trundling through the countryside, to the final pint by Henley’s riverside, you’re experiencing a slice of English tradition. As the sun sets over the Thames and you’ve perhaps earned your “ale trail” completion (and maybe a souvenir t-shirt if you partake in the official Henley Ale Trail!), you can kick back on the train ride home with a head full of great memories. The Regatta Line rail ale trail combines scenic adventure and beer lover’s delight, making it a perfect day out for real ale enthusiasts, railway buffs, or anyone who appreciates country pubs and beautiful surroundings.