Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail – Scenic Devon Pubs and Real Ale Adventure by Train

The Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail is a one-of-a-kind pub adventure by train, winding through the heart of Devon’s countryside from Exeter to Barnstaple. Launched in 2002 as the first trail of its kind, this rail-and-ale experience encourages visitors to hop off at rural stations and visit traditional pubs near the line. The concept was devised to boost local tourism and rail use by rewarding beer lovers for travelling by train to each pub. More than twenty years on, the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail remains a beloved excursion – a chance to enjoy real ales in characterful Devon pubs while leaving the car behind and soaking up beautiful scenery on the way. In fact, since its inception the Rail Ale Trails scheme (pioneered by the Tarka Line) has generated nearly 50,000 pub visits, bringing significant business to local pubs and communities. It’s not just a pub crawl; it’s an immersive journey through Devon’s landscapes and pub culture, all in one.

A Great Western Railway train crosses the River Taw near Umberleigh on the scenic Tarka Line. The trail treats participants to sweeping rural vistas as they shuttle between stops, making the journey as enjoyable as the destinations. The railway line itself – officially the Tarka Line – runs for about 39 miles (63 km) between the historic cathedral city of Exeter in the south and Barnstaple, the ancient market town often called the capital of North Devon. Named after Tarka the Otter (the famous Henry Williamson novel set in this region), the line closely follows the gentle River Taw for much of the route, offering picturesque countryside views of rolling green hills, woodlands and riverside pastures. It’s an ideal way to experience Devon’s scenery: you’ll trundle across old stone bridges, catch glimpses of distant moors, and pass through quaint villages that time forgot. The train ride takes roughly an hour and a quarter end-to-end, with a regular service throughout the day, so you have plenty of flexibility in planning your stops. An off-peak day return from Exeter to Barnstaple costs around £14–15 and allows unlimited hop on/off along the way (as long as you keep moving in one direction) – a great value for a full day’s exploring. The Tarka Line isn’t a special steam railway or tour train; it’s part of the regular Great Western Railway network, which means you can just buy a ticket and go, making it accessible and easy for anyone to embark on this rail ale adventure.

How the Rail Ale Trail Works

The Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail is designed to be self-guided and flexible. At its core, it’s a simple and fun incentive scheme: rail passengers visit participating pubs along the route, get a stamp for each pub in a special booklet or stamp sheet, and can claim a prize once they’ve collected enough stamps. To join in, the first step is to download and print the official stamp sheet (available from Great Scenic Railways or Devon & Cornwall Rail Partnership websites). The stamp sheet lists all the pubs on the trail, with a box for each pub’s stamp. Carry this with you on your journey; each time you stop at a trail pub and purchase a drink or some food, kindly ask the bar staff to stamp your sheet as proof of your visit. With 5, 10, or (previously) up to 18 stamps collected, participants historically could earn different rewards, and currently collecting 10 stamps will net you a special Rail Ale Trail T-shirt. The T-shirt is a fun memento – and bragging rights for having tackled a good portion of the trail! To claim it, you simply send in your completed sheet (a photo by email, or mail it) along with proof of your train tickets, and the Rail Partnership will post you the prize. It’s a light-hearted challenge that adds a sense of purpose to your pub exploration.

Crucially, the trail is all about responsible enjoyment. Organisers emphasise that it’s intended to be done at a leisurely pace, not all in one go. With around a dozen pubs currently on the list, nobody expects (or wants) you to race through them in a single day – in fact, the official advice is to take your time, perhaps spreading the trail over multiple trips. This way you can savoir each stop, enjoy the journey, and avoid overindulging. Safety is built into the concept: by relying on train travel, you have a designated driver (the railway) to shuttle you safely between pints, so there’s no need for anyone to drive. Many of the pubs are just a few minutes’ walk from their station, and the farther ones are still usually within 10-15 minutes on foot. The Rail Partnership works closely with pubs and local transport, so they also advise checking any walking routes (for example, one pub sits by a fast road – they warn visitors to be cautious walking the short distance along it). But in general, it’s as simple as train stops, you walk to pub, enjoy a pint (or perhaps a bite to eat), then hop back on the next train.

Another aspect of the trail’s ethos is supporting local businesses and local brews. Many of the recommended pubs focus on real ale from Devon and the West Country, and several are listed in CAMRA guides. In fact, the Rail Ale Trail concept is often supported by CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) for promoting pub culture and cask ale. You’ll find that your pints on the Tarka Line trail might include local favourites – perhaps a Devon-brewed bitter or a pint of scrumpy cider – each pub has its own offerings. For instance, one stop on the trail, the Golden Lion Tap in Barnstaple, serves ales from the nearby Country Life Brewery, rotating different brews weekly. It’s a great way to sample authentic West Country ale in the very places that know how to keep and pour a perfect pint.

Collecting stamps adds a fun treasure-hunt element. As an extra incentive, the organisers even allow a “bonus” stamp for having a meal at some pubs. This encourages visitors to try the food (and helps pubs by boosting food sales). Many of the pubs do serve excellent meals – from hearty Devon pub classics to Sunday roasts – so why not make one of your stops a lunch or dinner stop? You’ll not only line your stomach (a wise move on a beer tour), but also get that extra stamp to reach the T-shirt goal faster. Keep in mind that stamps are only given if you show a valid train ticket along with your purchase. The whole idea is to reward those who actually travel by rail, so be sure you buy that train ticket (which you’d need to get there anyway) and hang onto it. If you’re doing multiple legs (say a round trip), a day return or a Rover ticket is ideal. Travellers in a group of 3-9 people can get a GroupSave discount (about a third off) by buying tickets together, and local residents might use a Devon & Cornwall Railcard for discounts – making the journey even more economical. All these little details make the trail well-thought-out and user-friendly.

Before setting off, a bit of planning and common sense will ensure you have a smooth experience. Always check the train timetables for the day of your trip – the Tarka Line trains typically run about once an hour in each direction, but schedules can vary in evenings or on Sundays. Plot out which train you’ll catch to start, and approximate times for connections to the next stops. It’s wise to note the time of the last train home from Barnstaple or back from intermediate stations, so you’re not caught out after the final service. Likewise, check pub opening times in advance (especially in rural areas or off-season some may keep shorter hours midweek). The Rail Ale Trail website suggests calling ahead if you’re bringing a large group, just to give the pub a heads-up – many will be delighted to welcome “trailers” but small village pubs appreciate notice of a sudden influx. Importantly, bring your stamp sheet (one per person) and keep it handy; don’t be shy to ask staff for a stamp, but ideally do so when they’re not swamped at the bar. Having a printed timetable or offline schedule saved on your phone is useful as mobile signal can be patchy out in the Devon countryside. And above all, pace yourself and drink responsibly: the motto of the trail could well be “Take it easy”. Enjoy the rich flavours of Devon ale, chat with locals and fellow travellers, and relish the fact that you’re doing a pub tour in such a relaxed, old-fashioned way. The combination of train travel, country pubs, and real ale is something to savoir, not rush through.

Pubs Along the Tarka Line Trail

One of the joys of the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail is the sheer variety of pubs you’ll encounter – from historic city inns to rustic village taverns and lively market-town bars. Originally the trail featured 16 pubs (later expanding to 18-19 at its peak) up and down the line, but as of today a curated list of a dozen excellent pubs form the core trail (enough to keep you busy!). Let’s take a closer look at what awaits:

Exeter – The trail begins (or ends, depending on your direction) in Exeter, which boasts a trio of participating pubs. Each offers a distinct atmosphere and a taste of the local brewing scene. The Exeter Brewery Taproom is a must-visit for beer aficionados: it’s a taproom bar located within the Exeter Brewery itself, just a six-minute walk from Exeter St. David’s Station. Here you’re drinking ales literally at the source – the brewery produces a range of craft ales, and you can sample seasonal brews or their core range fresh on tap. It’s an unfussy, authentic spot that often opens late-week evenings (Thu/Fri from 5pm, with food available). Not far away, by the riverside, is The Mill on the Exe, a large pub beautifully situated next to the River Exe and Blackaller Weir. This pub is known for its spacious beer garden and waterside views – on a sunny day, it’s hard to beat a pint outside watching the river. The Mill on the Exe serves food all day and has a reputation for quality pub meals, which could be a good choice to line your stomach before heading north. It opens from morning (8am) through to late evening, reflecting its popularity as a family-friendly dining pub as well as a beer spot. The third Exeter venue on the trail is the White Hart Hotel, tucked in Exeter’s South Street about 10-11 minutes’ walk from Exeter Central Station. The White Hart is a gem of a historical pub – an old coaching inn that many consider “one of Exeter’s best kept secrets”. Behind its 18th-century facade (the site itself has hosted an inn for much longer) lies a labyrinth of cosy rooms and a courtyard. It’s a St Austell Brewery pub, so you’ll find a selection of their ales (like Tribute and Proper Job) in tip-top condition, alongside guest ales. With hearty food and characterful ambiance, the White Hart gives a lovely traditional send-off (or welcome) to the trail in Exeter.

Leaving Exeter, the train heads northwest into rural mid-Devon. Along the line, you’ll find charming village pubs waiting just a short stroll from tiny country stations. One such stop is Lapford, a little village where the trail’s recommended pub is The Old Malt Scoop Inn. About 14 minutes’ walk from Lapford Station along village lanes, the Old Malt Scoop is a classic country inn dating back to the 16th century. As its name suggests, it was once a maltings; today it offers a cosy atmosphere in its low-beamed bar and a reputation for good home-cooked food. This is the kind of pub with a roaring fire in winter, a friendly landlord who might chat about the local ale on tap, and perhaps a dog snoozing by the hearth. Continuing northward, make sure to hop off at Eggesford station, a particularly scenic spot surrounded by woodlands. Here, a short walk (around 5-6 minutes) through a patch of trees and along a road brings you to The Fox & Hounds Country Hotel. The Fox & Hounds is a Victorian hotel-pub set in 6 acres of grounds by the River Taw, and it recently re-joined the Rail Ale Trail after a period away. It’s well worth the stop: not only do they have a fine selection of ales (often including local Devon and Cornwall brews) in their wood-panelled bar, but you can also enjoy the beer garden that stretches toward the riverbank. If you’re lucky enough to be there on a sunny afternoon, sipping a pint by the river is pure bliss. This pub is also family and dog friendly, reflecting the laid-back country vibe. Eggesford is notable in its own right – nearby Eggesford Forest was the first state-owned forest planted in England (1919), so the area is rich in nature for those who might want a short walk before getting back on the train.

Next along the line, for the truly intrepid, is Portsmouth Arms – one of the most quirky and remote stops on the trail. This tiny station, basically a request halt in the middle of nowhere, exists primarily to serve the Portsmouth Arms Hotel pub, which sits just steps from the platform. In fact, the station was named after the pub, a former 18th-century coaching inn that long predates the railway. Stepping off at Portsmouth Arms feels like an adventure: you’re in the depths of the Taw Valley, surrounded by dense greenery with hardly any buildings in sight except this lone inn. The Portsmouth Arms pub has recently reopened after a period of closure, much to the delight of rail-ale-trailers. Inside, you’ll find a snug, traditional bar with a wood-burning stove and a warm welcome. They serve classic ales and good value pub grub; it’s the kind of place where walkers, locals, and rail trail “pilgrims” converge to swap stories. Do note, however, that train service at Portsmouth Arms is very infrequent – currently, Sundays are the easiest day to visit by rail, when a few trains in each direction stop there. On weekdays the timing might be trickier, so plan carefully (or be ready for a long wait for the next train!). The Rail Partnership explicitly cautions against trying to walk along the road to the next station – it’s a fast highway with no pavement – so you really do want to arrive and depart by train at this one. If you can make the timing work, it’s a unique and rewarding stop that gives you a sense of truly “off the beaten track” pub exploration.

A short ride further north brings you to Umberleigh, another small station that’s a gateway to a great pub. Just across a bridge from the station is The Rising Sun Inn, an absolute highlight of the trail. The Rising Sun is a 13th-century inn (yes, parts of it are that old!) that has been serving ale for centuries by the River Taw. From Umberleigh station it’s about a 5-10 minute walk, crossing over a scenic bridge with the river below. The pub itself is a whitewashed building with a big sign bearing its name and a sun motif – you can’t miss it. As a free house (not tied to any brewery), the Rising Sun typically offers a rotating selection of real ales, often showcasing local Devon breweries. Many rail ale trailers mention this pub as a favourite thanks to its combination of history, atmosphere, and quality. In the winter, you’ll find an open fire and a cosy bar area; in summer, there’s a front terrace where you can relax with a pint in the sunshine. They also have a reputation for excellent local food – in fact, the Sunday roast here is said to be superb, and the menu often features Devon produce. If you time it right, this could be a lovely lunch or early dinner stop on your itinerary. The Rising Sun exemplifies what the Rail Ale Trail is all about: a destination pub that you might never discover otherwise, made easily accessible by the train. A fun bit of trivia – an early “rail ale” pioneer was actually at Umberleigh: back in 1977, a special chartered “Rail Ale Ramble” train from London brought nearly 600 people to a pub excursion in the West Country, and such events helped inspire local schemes like the Tarka Line trail decades later. Today, you probably won’t encounter such huge crowds, but you’ll certainly not be alone – on weekends especially, don’t be surprised if a handful of fellow ale enthusiasts step off the train with you at Umberleigh, all with the Rising Sun in their sights!

The trail leads to Barnstaple, the terminus of the Tarka Line and a worthy culmination of the journey. Barnstaple is the largest town in North Devon, with a rich history and a lively town centre. Here the Rail Ale Trail includes five pubs, each offering something a little different. Near the riverfront in the town square is The Golden Lion Tap, a pub that proudly serves beers from Country Life Brewery, a North Devon brewer known for ales like Golden Pig and Devonshire Ale. The Golden Lion rotates its Country Life brews regularly, giving you a chance to try a truly local pint. This pub has a traditional feel – wooden beams, a real locals’ vibe – and often has a line-up of regulars chatting away at the bar. A short walk away, tucked on a side street, is The Corner House, a traditional town-centre pub popular with locals. The Corner House doesn’t serve food, but makes up for it with an convivial atmosphere and well-kept beers; it’s the sort of place to enjoy a quiet pint and a chat, away from the louder high-street bars. Over on Bear Street, you’ll find The Ebberley Arms, another trail pub in Barnstaple which stands out for serving Wadworth 6X ale straight from the barrel. The Ebberley is an unpretentious, old-school pub – expect a cozy interior, sports on the TV perhaps, and a mix of patrons. It’s one of those places where the bartender likely knows everyone by name (and if you’re not a local, you’ll still get a friendly welcome). Down by the River Yeo, there’s The Rolle Quay Inn, a pub that offers a slightly more scenic and relaxed setting near the water. Rolle Quay has a small beer garden ideal for summer, and they do serve food, including light bites. It’s described as a “friendly locals’ pub” and indeed you might find people enjoying an afternoon drink watching swans on the river. Last but not least, Barnstaple’s trail roster includes The Reform Inn in the Pilton area of town. The Reform is actually an independent brewery pub, home to “Reform Brewery,” and it serves its own craft ales on tap. If you’re interested in the brewing process, the pub can even arrange brewery tours by appointment. The vibe here is rustic and ale-focused – don’t expect fancy decor, it’s all about the beer. The Reform’s limited opening hours (often evenings and weekends) mean it’s worth checking timing, but it’s a treat for beer geeks to try some unique brews that you won’t find elsewhere. Between these five establishments, Barnstaple offers a fantastic finale for the Rail Ale Trail: you can do a mini-crawl within the town itself, enjoying the variety from brewery tap to riverside inn. And since Barnstaple is a proper town, you’ll also find plenty of food options, from the famous Pannier Market’s street food to fish & chips shops, in case you need additional sustenance after your ale sampling.

The Rising Sun Inn at Umberleigh is one of the historic pubs on the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail, offering real ales and a riverside beer garden for visitors. Each pub on the trail brings its own character – that’s part of the joy. Some, like the Rising Sun and White Hart, envelop you in centuries of history with their low ceilings and thick stone walls. Others, like the Exeter Brewery Taproom or Reform Inn, put you right into the modern craft beer scene, chatting with brewers or learning about new styles. Then you have the no-frills community locals (Corner House, Ebberley Arms) where the bar chatter gives a real sense of place, and country hotels like the Fox & Hounds where you can sip ale in a sprawling garden while chickens peck in the distance. It’s this mix of experiences along one railway line that makes the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail so special. You’re not just passing through places – you’re stopping to become a part of them, if only for a drink and a hello.

Tips for an Enjoyable Trail Experience

• Plan your itinerary, but stay flexible: Decide which pubs you most want to visit and note their opening times and the train times. But be ready to adjust on the fly – you might discover a conversation or a scenic view you want to linger over. The trail is about the journey, not just ticking off stamps. If time gets short, remember you don’t have to get all 10 stamps in one day or even on one trip.

• Stay safe and sober-ish: This is a pub trail, yes, but it’s not a race to down as many pints as possible. Know your limits – it’s perfectly fine to opt for a half-pint at each stop, or skip alcoholic drinks at intervals and have a soft drink (you’ll still get your stamp with any purchase). The combination of fresh air, train motion, and alcohol means you should pace yourself. Drinking water between stops and having a hearty meal (or snacks) during the day will keep you going strong. “Take it easy” is the mantra, and your liver will thank you later.

• Mind the timetable (and signal): As mentioned, have a timetable on hand. In certain valleys along the Tarka Line, mobile phone signal can drop out. Download or print the Tarka Line timetable PDF in advance. Most station stops are request stops (except the bigger towns), meaning you may need to signal to the driver to board or notify the conductor to get off – familiarise yourself with how request stops work (usually, stick your arm out to wave down the train as it approaches). The train conductors on this line are used to Rail Ale Trailers and are generally friendly and helpful if you have questions about connections.

• Engage with locals: Devon folk are famously friendly. In the pub, don’t hesitate to strike up a conversation – mention you came by train from Exeter and are doing the ale trail. You’ll likely hear some local insight, and maybe even a recommendation for a beer to try or an interesting bit of history about the area. Some of these pubs have guestbooks or stamp logs specifically for Rail Ale Trail visitors, which is a fun way to see where others have come from. You might find you’re chatting with someone who came from the other end of the country just to do this! The social aspect is a big part of the adventure.

• Make the most of the day out: The Rail Ale Trail can be as much about exploring Devon as about beer. If you have time, consider what else is around at your stops. For example, Barnstaple has the Pannier Market and a charming town centre.; Crediton (if you pause there, though its pub isn’t on the official stamp list currently) has a beautiful church and a farmers’ market. Even a short wander near Eggesford or Umberleigh can reveal stunning river views or countryside walks. By combining a bit of sightseeing or walking with your pub stops, you’ll create a more varied and memorable day. And don’t forget to take photos – a shot of your pint with a country backdrop or a selfie by the station sign makes for great memories (and envy-inducing social media posts).

Be prepared for the unexpected – part of the fun is that not everything will go precisely to plan. You might miss a train and have an hour to kill at a sleepy station (not the worst thing in such lovely surroundings), or find a pub unexpectedly closed (always have a Plan B stop). Treat it as an adventure and you’ll have stories to tell. As one tourist who completed the trail put it, it’s “a thoroughly enjoyable endeavour” and “a great way to spend the weekend” – a sentiment that captures the spirit of the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail.

A Unique Devon Pub Adventure: Worth the Trip

Overall, the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail offers something truly special: a blend of scenic travel, pub exploration, and local culture that you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else. It takes the age-old pleasure of a country pub crawl and elevates it – quite literally onto rails – combining it with the romance of a train journey through beautiful landscapes. What’s more, it’s steeped in authenticity. This isn’t a gimmicky guided tour or a commercial package; it’s a grassroots initiative that grew out of the love of good beer, community pubs, and railway heritage. The fact that it’s the first rail ale trail ever launched in Britain gives it a sort of legendary status among beer enthusiasts. And yet, it remains wonderfully down-to-earth. There’s no formal tour guide herding you around – you create your own adventure, at your own pace.

For beer lovers, the trail is an opportunity to taste real ales in their natural habitat – perhaps enjoying a pint of tawny bitter in a centuries-old inn or trying a hoppy local IPA at a modern taproom. For rail enthusiasts, the journey itself is a delight: the Tarka Line has historical significance dating back to 1854, and you can almost sense the legacy of the line as the train clickety-clacks through tunnels and over Victorian bridges. The route’s scenery, from the lush fields of mid-Devon to the tidal creeks near Barnstaple, is a reminder of why they call this network Great Scenic Railways. And for the average traveller or day-tripper, what could be better than a day of exploring new places, meeting friendly faces, and not having to worry about driving or logistics much at all? It’s the definition of easy, feel-good travel.

Importantly, the trail supports the local economy in a meaningful way. Many rural pubs have struggled in recent years, and schemes like this bring in visitors (and revenue) that otherwise might never come. Pub landlords have attested that the Rail Ale Trail custom makes up a notable part of their business, helping keep these establishments alive. By participating, you’re not just having a good time – you’re also contributing to the preservation of Devon’s pub heritage and the viability of the community rail line. It’s tourism at its most sustainable and community-oriented: good times for a good cause.

So, whether you’re a CAMRA card-carrier ticking off another ale haven, a group of friends looking for a memorable outing, or a couple seeking a relaxing tour of Devon with a twist, the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail is sure to charm you. From the moment you sip that first Exeter-brewed ale to the final train ride home watching the sunset over the Devon hills, you’ll be part of a tradition that’s equal parts journey and destination.